Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( www.rainhasantaisabel.org ) Held around 4 July in even-numbered years, this festival commem-
orates Santa Isabel. A Thursday-night candlelit procession carries her statue from the
Convento de Santa Clara-a-Nova across the Ponte de Santa Clara to Largo da Portagem
and through the streets to Igreja do Carmo; a second procession the following Sunday re-
turns her to the convent. The festival also coincides with the yearly Festa da Cidade (Town
Festival), celebrated with music, folk dancing and fireworks.
Festival das Artes
( www.festivaldasartes.com ) This two-week festival in late July brings classical music to the
Quinta das Lágrimas, jazz to the riverboats, guest chefs to local restaurants and other
forms of merriment to Coimbra's streets.
ARTS
RAINHA-SANTA ISABEL
One of Portugal's most popular saints, Queen-Saint Isabel is most often depicted with a scattering of roses falling
across her garments. Legend has it that one day while she was bringing food to the poor, her less-than-saintly hus-
band (Dinis I) accused her of stealing food from the royal kitchens. When the king angrily demanded to see the
contents of her apron, out fell nothing but flowers. Rainha Isabel - not surprisingly, given the apocryphal tale - is
credited with founding homes for abused wives and abandoned children. When eldest son Afonso challenged
Dom Dinis for the throne, Isabel rode on horseback between the two lines of opposing forces, daring both father
and son to attack her first.
Sleeping
There are numerous cheap residenciais on Avenida Fernão de Magalhães near the Coim-
bra A train station.
Riversuites
( 239 440 582; www.riversuiteshotel.com ; Av João das Regras 82; r €39; ) Just across the bridge
from the centre, with easy parking alongside, this excellent new hotel has slick rooms (not
suites), modern stylings and comforts. A decent breakfast is included, and the showers are
just great. Don't worry about the busy road outside; the windows are so well sound-
proofed it's almost unnerving. The price may rise, but at time of research it offered un-
beatable value.
HOTEL
Serenata Hostel
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