The Beiras - Portugal - page 627

In the square itself is a statue of João III OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP , who turns his back on a
sweeping view of the city and the river. It was he who re- established the university in
Coimbra in 1537 and invited big-shot scholars to teach here in what had previously been a
royal palace.
The square's most prominent feature is the much-photographed 18th-century clock tower
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP . This tower is nicknamed a cabra (the goat) because, when it
chimed to mark the end of studies, the first-year undergrads were pounced upon by swag-
gering older students and humiliated without mercy - that is, unless they leapt their way
home like mountain goats in order to avoid them.
From the courtyard gate take the stairway on the right up to the rather grand Sala dos
Capelos OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (Graduates' Hall), a former examination room hung with
dark portraits of Portugal's kings, and heavy quiltlike decoration. The adjacent passage-
way affords visitors excellent city views.
Back outside, to the left below the clock tower, you'll find the entrance to fanciful
Capela de São Miguel OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP , an ornate baroque chapel with brightly painted
ceiling, ornate tilework, Manueline features and a gilded organ. Concerts still take place
here on occasion - ask at the turismo (tourist office).
However, all else pales before Biblioteca Joanina OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (João V Library;
booking 239 859 818; [e-mail]; Velha Universidade; adult/senior/student €3.50/1.75/2.45 or with Sala dos
Capelos €5/2.50/3.50 9am-7pm May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr) next door. A gift from João V in the early
18th century, it seems too extravagant and distracting for study with its rosewood, ebony
and jacaranda tables, elaborately frescoed ceilings and gilt chinoiserie bookshelves. Its
300,000 ancient books deal with law, philosophy and theology. A lower floor has more
tomes and the Prisão Acadêmica , a lock-up for misbehaving students.
Visitors are admitted in small numbers and on a timetable, and you may find that some
rooms are closed during degree ceremonies. Buy your ticket in the shop in the square just
outside the Porta Férrea. Individuals and small groups can generally get in with minimal
waiting time.

Sé Velha
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP

CATHEDRAL

(Old Cathedral; 239 825 273; Largo da Sé Velha; admission €2; 10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Apr-Oct)
Coimbra's stunning old cathedral is one of the finest examples of Romanesque architec-
ture in Portugal. Its crenellated exterior and narrow, slitlike lower windows serve as re-