Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
RIBATEJO
Literally meaning 'Above the Tejo', Ribatejo is the only Portuguese province that doesn't
border either Spain or the open ocean. A string of Templar castles are proof of its strategic
importance, though these days its clout is economic, thanks to industry along the Tejo and
the rich agricultural plains that spread out from the river's banks. This is also bull country -
most of Portugal's fighters are bred in and around the capital, Santarém.
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Santarém
POP 29,200 / ELEV 110M
Contemplating the staggering views from Santarém's Portas do Sol atop the old town walls,
it's easy to understand why Roman, Visigoth, Moorish and Portuguese armies all wanted to
claim this strategic stronghold above the Rio Tejo. Dom Afonso Henriques' storming of
these heights in 1147 marked a turning point in the Reconquista and quickly became the
stuff of Portuguese national legend.
A group of beautiful Gothic buildings recalls Santarém's glory days, though it was
quickly eclipsed by Lisbon. These days, the traditional centre with its venerable stores and
workshops still functioning amid a general air of genteel decay makes it worth a visit, as do
the heart-lifting vistas. It's rather short on accommodation though.
History
One of the most important cities of Lusitania under Julius Caesar, and prized by the Moors
under the name Xantarim for almost 400 years, Santarém already had centuries of history
under its belt before passing to Portuguese rule in 1147. So great was Dom Afonso Hen-
riques' joy at conquering this legendarily impenetrable citadel that he built the magnificent
Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Alcobaça in gratitude.
