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apartments with kitchens, many with pleasant views across parkland to the castle. Book-
ing online will get much better prices than these rack rates.
Eating
Martin & Thomas
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BAKERY
(Praça Rodrigues Lobo 8-9; snacks & pastries from €1; 8am-7.30pm Mon-Thu, 8am-midnight Fri & Sat,
9.30am-7.30pm Sun) This gourmet bakery with outdoor tables on Leiria's prettiest square fea-
tures tasty bread and pastries, as well as light meals, all served with dazzling castle views.
Great for day-trip picnic fare too.
A Toca
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( 244 832 221; Rua Dr Correia Mateus 42; mains €6-11; lunch & dinner Sun-Fri) Along this pedestrian-
ised street are several traditional restaurants, including this friendly, no- nonsense spot
with pretty tiled interior and a long menu featuring wood-grilled meat and fish.
PORTUGUESE
Malagueta Afrodisíaca
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FUSION €€
( 244 831 607; www.malaguetaafrodisiaca.pt ; Rua Gago Coutinho 17; mains €12-15; 7pm-midnight; )
For a rare deviation from standard Portuguese fare, head to this trendy, slinkily decorated
place, tucked down a narrow street in the historic centre. The eclectic 15-page menu fea-
tures aphrodisiac teas, flaming desserts, mixed drinks, and a dizzying collection of
Brazilian, Mexican and other overseas-influenced dishes.
Cardamomo
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( 244 832 033; Rua Barão de Viamonte 43; mains €10-12; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun; ) The owner's
Goan roots are clearly on display at this air-conditioned upstairs restaurant serving a fu-
sion of Indian and Portuguese cuisine. Start with bacon-wrapped asparagus or salad
greens with apples and honey, then feast on stuffed eggplant, sea bass with mango, Goan
xacuti curry or arugula-beet risotto.
INDIAN, PORTUGUESE €€
Drinking
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