Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
BEJA'S LOVE LETTERS
A series of scandalous, passionate 17th-century love letters came from Beja, allegedly written by one of the con-
vent's nuns, Mariana Alcoforado, to French cavalry officer Count Chamilly. The letters immortalised their love
affair while the count was stationed here during the time of the Portuguese war with Spain.
The Letters of a Portuguese Nun first emerged in a French translation in 1669 and subsequently appeared in
English and many other languages. Funnily enough, the originals were never found.
In 1972 three Portuguese writers, Maria Isabel Barreno, Maria Teresa Horta and Maria Velho da Costa, pub-
lished The Three Marias: New Portuguese Letters, a collection of stories, poems and letters that formed a femin-
ist update of the letters - for which they were prosecuted under the Salazar regime.
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Castro Verde
The thriving village of Castro Verde has a big history. It was an ancient hill fort that soon
grew into a settlement. The village is located near the site where the Battle of Ourique was
fought (1139), when Afonso Henriques defeated the Moors and declared himself the first
King of Portugal. In the 18th century Dom João V ordered the construction of the stun-
ning Royal Basilica, whose tiles replicate the battle scenes. These days, its inhabitants are
fiercely proud of the local traditions; their annual fair - Feira de Castro - is held on the
third weekend of October.
It's worth the detour, especially if en route from Beja to Mértola or the Algarve.
Sights & Activities
Basílica Real
(admission €1; 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Wed-Sun) The 18th-century Royal Basilica features
extraordinary gilded woodcarvings and a set of tiled panels depicting the Battle of
Ourique. A small museum shows religious art. The highlight is the unique 13th-century
silver head of Saint Fabian.
CHURCH
Largo da Feira Moinho de Vento
This working museum proudly continues Castro Verde's old milling traditions in a surviv-
ing windmill that dates from the 1800s. The miller lives here so you can enter if it's in
use.
WINDMILL
 
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