Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
marble confection is the handiwork of German master Friedrich Ludwig, who trained in
Italy and clearly had a kind of Portuguese Vatican in mind. No expense was spared:
around 45,000 artisans worked on building its 1200 rooms and two bell towers, which
shelter the world's largest collection of bells (92 in total).
When the French invaded Portugal in 1807, Dom João VI and the royals skedaddled to
Brazil, taking most of Mafra's furniture with them. Imagine the anticlimax when the
French found nothing but 20 elderly Franciscan friars. General Junot billeted his troops in
the monastery, followed by Wellington and his men. From then on the palace became a
military haven. Even today, most of it is used as a military academy.
On a self-guided visit, you'll take in treasures such as the antler-strewn hunting room
and a walled bed for mad monks (maybe sent over the edge by all those corridors!). The
biggest stunner is the 83.6m-long barrel-vaulted library, housing some 40,000 15th- to
18th-century books, many hand-bound by the monks. It's an appropriate fairy-tale coda to
all this extravagance that they're gradually being gnawed away by rats. The basilica of
twin bell-tower fame is strikingly restrained by comparison, featuring multihued marble
floors and Carrara marble statues.
Tapada Nacional de Mafra
( 261 817 050; www.tapadademafra.pt ; walker €5, cyclist €10; 9.30am-5.30pm) The 819-hectare
Tapada Nacional de Mafra is where Dom João V used to go a-hunting. Enclosed by an
original 21km wall, the grounds are now an environmentally aware game park, home to
free-roaming wild boar and red deer, plus smaller numbers of foxes, badgers and eagles.
To appreciate the different ecosystems, hike through its woodlands of Portuguese oak,
cork oak and pine; don't miss the 350-year-old cork oak saved from fire in 2003. The 4km
trail is a good introduction to the park, but you have a greater chance of spotting animals
on one of the more remote 7.5km routes. Also on the grounds is a simple but pleasantly
furnished guesthouse (singles/doubles €65/75). On weekends, many activities are on offer,
including horse riding (by advance reservation), archery, wagon rides, and taking a tourist
'train' around the park.
The Tapada is about 7km north of Mafra, along the road to Gradil. It's best reached by
private transport, as buses are erratic; from Mafra, taxis charge around €10 one way.
FOREST
MINIATURE VILLAGE
Sobreiro
( 9.30am-7pm) At the village of Sobreiro, 4km northwest of Mafra (take any
Ericeira -bound bus), sculptor José Franco has created an enchanting miniature, vaguely
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