Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
At Bairro Alto's touristy, folksy performances, you'll only be skating the surface. For
authentic fado, go to where it was born - Alfama. While wandering the narrow lanes by
night you'll be serenaded by mournful ballads.
There's usually a minimum cover of €15 to €25 and, as food is often mediocre, it's
worth asking if you can just order a bottle of wine. Book ahead at weekends. If you prefer
a spontaneous approach, seek out
fado vadio
where anyone can - and does - have a
warble.
A Baîuca
( 218 867 284; abaiuca@sapo.pt; Rua de São Miguel 20; dinner Thu-Mon)
On a good night, walking
into A Baîuca is like gate-crashing a family party. It's a special place with
fado vadio
,
where locals take a turn and spectators hiss if anyone dares to chat during the singing. The
food stops around 10pm but the fado goes on until midnight. Reserve ahead.
FADO
Clube de Fado
FADO
( 218 852 704;
www.clube-de-fado.com
;
Rua de São João da Praça; admission €15; 9pm-2.30am Mon-Sat)
Clube de Fado hosts the cream of the fado crop in vaulted, dimly lit surrounds. Big-name
fadistas
performing here include Joana Amendoeira and Miguel Capucho, alongside cel-
ebrated guitarists such as José Fontes Rocha. The food is less outstanding, so come for
drinks and perhaps appetisers.
Mesa de Frades
( 917 029 436;
www.mesadefrades.com
;
Rua dos Remédios 139a; admission from €15; dinner Wed-Mon)
A
magical place to hear fado, tiny Mesa de Frades used to be a chapel. It's tiled with exquis-
ite
azulejos
and has just a handful of tables. The show begins around 11pm. Skip the food
(which is hit- or-miss ) and stick to drinks.
FADO
Parreirinha de Alfama
( 218 868 209; Beco do Espírito Santo 1; minimum €15; 8pm-2am)
Owned by fado legend Argen-
tina Santos, this place offers good food and ambience; it attracts an audience that often
falls hard for the top-quality
fadistas
. Book by 4pm.
FADO
