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(Centro Cultural de Belém, Praça do Império; mains €9-11; 10am-11pm Tue-Sun; ) This strange hybrid
manages to bridge east (este) and west (oeste) surprisingly well, with tasty thin-crust piz-
zas fired up in the geometric oven and an inviting sushi display at the other end of the
front counter. There's an airy interior, patio seating and a grassy lawn where kids frolic
and adults lounge about. Behind the restaurant is a cafe.
Nosolo Italia
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(Av de Brasília 202; mains €10-14; noon-10pm) This bustling eatery, with outdoor tables perched
over the water, has a big menu of pizzas, pastas, salads and crepes; there's also a popular
ice-cream counter.
ITALIAN €€
Enoteca de Belém
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( 213 631 511; Travessa do Marta Pinto 10; mains €12-17; 1-11pm Tue-Sun) Tucked down a quiet
lane just off Belém's main thoroughfare, this wine bar serves tasty Portuguese classics (try
the octopus or the grilled Iberian pork), matched by an excellent selection of full-bodied
Douro reds and refreshing Alentejan whites. The atmosphere is a mix of elegance (art-
work, bottle-lined walls) and casual (soundless football playing on the TV).
PORTUGUESE, WINE BAR €€
A Margem
( 918 225 548; Doca do Bom Sucesso; salads €10-14; 10am-1am) Well-sited near the river's edge,
this small sun-drenched cube of glass and white stone boasts an open patio and large win-
dows facing the Tejo. Locals come for fresh salads, cheese plates, bruschetta and other
light bites that go nicely with wine and other drinks. Sunglasses are essential. To get here,
follow the river's edge 200m west from the Padrão dos Descobrimentos.
FUSION €€
Feitoria
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( 210 400 200; Altis Belém Hotel, Doca do Bom Sucesso; mains €34-42; lunch Tue-Fri, dinner Tue-Sat) José
Cordeiro serves decadent, seasonally inspired masterpieces at this Michelin-starred res-
taurant overlooking the riverfront. Rich textures and mouth- watering flavours feature in
dishes like roasted cantaril (redfish) and crispy squid stuffed with crab and green-pea tex-
ture, and oven-roasted partridge with chestnut purée and wild mushrooms. Excellent
wines.
CONTEMPORARY, PORTUGUESE €€€
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