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(Rua Cruzes da Sé 29; mains €7-12; 10am-2am) In the shadow of the grand cathedral, this youth-
ful, jazz-loving cafe has earned a local following for its cozy ambience and eclectic menu.
Stop in for coffees, drinks, salads, sandwiches, crepes, burgers, and decadent chocolate
cake.
Santo António de Alfama
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PORTUGUESE €€
( 218 881 328; Beco de Saõ Miguel 7; mains €15-21; lunch & dinner) This bistro wins the award for
Lisbon's loveliest courtyard: all vines, twittering budgies and fluttering laundry. The in-
terior is a silverscreen shrine, while the menu stars tasty petiscos (appetisers): gorgonzola-
stuffed mushrooms, roasted aubergines with yoghurt, as well as more filling traditional
Portuguese dishes.
Malmequer Bemmequer
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( 218 876 535; Rua de São Miguel 23; dishes €8-15; lunch & dinner Wed-Sun) Look for the sign with
a daisy for this bright check-tablecloth-and-tile number overlooking a pretty square. It
rolls out charcoal-grilled dishes such as lamb chops, shrimp and fish kebabs, and classic
sardines.
PORTUGUESE €€
Casanova
( 218 877 532; Cais da Pedra á Bica do Sapato; mains €8-16; lunch & dinner) Casanova seduces with
wood-fired pizza that's thin, crisp and authentically Italian. Bag a table on the riverside
terrace (heated in winter).
PIZZA €€
Grelhador de Alfama
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( 218 886 298; Rua dos Remédios 135; mains €10-12; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Exposed stone and
fado paraphernalia create a cosy-meets-kitsch setting for barbecued fish or steak at this
no-fuss grill house. The pocket-sized terrace fills up fast in summer.
PORTUGUESE €€
Tentações de Goa
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INDIAN €€
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