Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
MYTH OF THE LITTLE MONK
It's only natural that a world as old, dark and mysterious as Naples'
sottosuolo
(underground) should
breed a few fantastical urban myths. The best-known and most-loved is that of the
municello
(little
monk), a Neapolitan leprechaun of sorts known for being both naughty and nice. Said to live in the
wine cellar, sightings of the hooded sprite were regularly reported in the 18th and 19th centuries. Some
spoke of him as a kindred soul, a bearer of gifts and good fortune. To others, the
municello
spelled
trouble - sneaking into homes to misplace objects, steal precious jewels and seduce the odd lonely
housewife.
While a handful of Neapolitans still curse the hooded imp whenever the car keys go missing, most
now believe that the cheeky
municello
was actually the city's long-gone
pozzari
(aqueduct cleaners).
Descending daily down the wells, the small-statured
pozzari
fought off the damp, cool conditions with
a heavy, hooded mantel. Naturally, most would pop back up for a breath of fresh air, sometimes find-
ing themselves in people's very homes. For some, the temptation of scouring through drawers in
search of valuables was all too tempting. For others, it was a way of making new acquaintances, or a
way of bringing a little company to the odd neglected housewife. Whatever the intentions, it quickly
becomes clear just how the tale of the 'minimonk' began.
Speleological Saviours & Rediscovered Secrets
Thankfully, all is not lost, as a passionate league of professional and volunteer speleolo-
gists continues to rediscover and render accessible long-lost sites and secrets - a fact not
lost on the likes of National Geographic and the BBC, both of which have documented the
work of these subterranean experts. The city's most prolific speleological association
today is the aptly named La Macchina del Tempo (The Time Machine). Lead by speleolo-
gist Luca Cuttitta, it manages the fascinating Museo del Sottosuolo (Museum of the
Underground), a DIY ode to speleologists and the treasures they uncover. Hidden away on
Piazza Cavour, its series of restored underground cisterns recreates real-life sites inaccess-
ible to the public, from a phallocentric shrine to the Graeco-Roma god of fertility, Priapus,
to a luridly hued Hellenic-era hypogeum (underground chamber). Precious debris that
once filled the voids is now displayed, from rare majolica tiles to domestic WWII-era ob-
jects. The museum itself was founded by veteran cave crusader Clemente Esposito, lov-
ingly nicknamed
il Papa del sottosuolo
(Pope of the Underground) in local speleological
circles.
Even more thrilling are La Macchina del Tempo's speleological tours, which take in un-
explored nooks few locals will ever see. On these journeys, surprise discoveries are far
from rare, whether it's another secret wartime hideout, an early Christian engraving or an
