Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ghetti), whose sauce is a lip-smacking blend of tomatoes, black olives, capers, anchovies
and (in some cases) a dash of red chilli.
A richer tomato-based classic with aristocratic origins is the Neapolitan
ragù
, whose
name stems from the French ragout. A tomato and meat sauce, it is left to simmer for
about six hours before being served with
maccheroni
(macaroni-type pasta).
THE CULT OF CAFFÈ
The Neapolitan coffee scene trades hipsters, soy and syphons for retro-vested baristas, chintzy fit-outs
and un-hyped java brilliance. Here, velvety, lingering espresso is not a fashion statement - it's a birth-
right. In most cases, it's also a quick, unceremonious swill standing at local bars. But don't be fooled -
the speed with which it's consumed does not diminish the importance of its quality.
According to the Neapolitans, it's the local water that makes their coffee stronger and better than
any other in Italy. To drink it like a local, keep milky options like caffè latte and cappuccino for the
morning. After 11am, espresso and caffè macchiato (an espresso with a drop of milk) are the norm.
For a weaker coffee (shame on you!) ask for a caffè lungo (a watered down espresso in a larger cup) or
a caffè americano (an even weaker version of the caffè lungo).
Another ritual is the free
bicchiere d'acqua
(glass of water), offered either
liscia
(uncarbonated) or
frizzante
(sparkling) with your coffee. Drink it before your coffee to cleanse your palate. Just don't be
surprised if you're not automatically offered one. After all, what would a heathen
straniero
(foreigner)
know about coffee? Don't be shy - smile sweetly and ask for
un bicchiere d'acqua, per favore.
Mozzarella di Bufala
So you think the cow's milk mozzarella served in Capri's
insalata caprese
(a salad made
of mozzarella, tomato, basil and olive oil) is delicious? Taste Campania's
mozzarella di
bufala
(buffalo-milk mozzarella) and you'll move onto an entirely different level of deli-
ciousness. Made on the plains surrounding Caserta and Paestum, it's best eaten when
freshly made that morning, its rich, sweet flavour and luscious texture nothing short of a
revelation. You'll find it served in trattorias (informal restaurants) and restaurants across
the region. Sorrento even has a dedicated mozzarella eatery, Sorrento's Inn Bufalito.
Bought fresh from
latterie
(dairies), it comes lukewarm in a plastic bag filled with a
slightly cloudy liquid: the run-off from the mozzarella making. As for that irresistible
taste, it's the high fat content and buffalo milk protein that give the cheese the distinctive,
pungent flavour so often absent in the versions sold abroad. Even more decadent is the
