Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The food of the poor, the so-called
mangiafoglie
(leaf eaters), was largely based on
pasta and vegetables grown on the fertile volcanic plains around Naples. Aubergines (egg-
plants), artichokes, courgettes (zucchini), tomatoes and peppers were among the staples,
while milk from sheep, cows and goats was used to make cheese. Flat breads imported
from Greek and Arab lands, the forebear of the pizza, were also popular. Meat and fish
were expensive and reserved for special occasions.
Meanwhile, in the court kitchens, the top French cooks of the day were working to feed
the insatiable appetites of the Bourbon monarchy. The headstrong queen Maria Carolina,
wife of King Ferdinand I, was so impressed by her sister Marie Antoinette's court in Ver-
sailles that she asked to borrow some chefs. These Gallic imports obviously took to the
Neapolitan air, creating among other things highly elaborate
timballi di pasta
(pasta pies),
the
gattò di patate
(potato tart) and the iconic
babà
, a mushroom-shaped sponge cake
soaked in rum and sugar.
More contentious are the origins of Naples'
most famous pastry: the flaky, seashell-shaped
sfogliatella
. Filled with cinnamon-infused
ricotta and candied fruit, it was created, some
say, by French chefs for the king of Poland in
the 18th century. Others say that it was inven-
ted by 18th-century nuns in Conca dei Marini,
a small village on the Amalfi Coast. Nowadays
its two most popular forms are the soft and doughy shortcrust
frolla
, and the crispy, filo-
style 'riccia' version.
During spring, summer and early autumn,
towns across southern Italy celebrate
sagre,
the festivals of local foods in season. Scan
www.prodottitipici.com/sagre
(in Italian) for a
lip-smacking list.
APPETISING READS
Pique your appetite with the following insightful guides to Campania's culinary riches:
» David Ruggerio's
Italian Kitchen: Family Recipes from the Old Country
(David
Ruggerio) Filled with the secrets of a Neapolitan kitchen.
» Guiliano Bugialli's
Food of Naples and Campania
(Guiliano Bugialli) A culinary
journey through the region led by a prolific Italian-cookery writer.
»
La Pizza: The True Story from Naples
(Nikko Amandonico and Natalia Borri)
Sumptuously illustrated history of pizza, set in Naples' kaleidoscopic streets.
»
Naples at Table: Cooking in Campania
(Arthur Schwartz) Local food trivia and
250 recipes.
