Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
cidence; San Gennaro is the city's patron saint. As in much of southern Italy, Neapolitans
celebrate their
giorno omastico
(name day) with as much gusto as they do their actual
birthdays. Forgetting a friend's name day is a bigger faux pas than forgetting their birth-
day because everyone knows (or should know) the most important saints' days.
VICTORY OF THE SHRINES
It only takes a quick stroll through the
centro storico
(historic centre), Quartieri Spagnoli or Sanità dis-
trict to work out that small shrines are a big hit in Naples. A kitschy combo of electric votive candles,
Catholic iconography and fresh or plastic flowers, they adorn everything from
palazzo
(large building)
facades to courtyards and staircases. Most come with an inscription, confirming the shrine as a tribute
per grazie ricevute
(for graces received) or
ex-voto
(in fulfilment of a vow).
The popularity of the shrines can be traced back to the days of Dominican friar Gregorio Maria
Rocco (1700-82). Determined to make the city's dark, crime-ridden laneways safer, he convinced the
Bourbon monarch to light up the lanes with oil lamps. The lamps were hastily trashed by the city's
petty thieves who relied on darkness to trip up their victims with rope. Thankfully, the quick-thinking
friar had a better idea. Banking on the city's respect for its saints, he encouraged locals to erect illu-
minated shrines. The idea worked and the streets did become safer, for even the toughest of petty
thieves wouldn't dare upset an adored celestial idol.
For the religiously inclined, these haloed helpers play a more significant role in their
spiritual life than the big 'G' himself. While the Almighty is seen as stern and distant (just
like any old-school Italian papa), the saints enjoy a more familial role as intercessor and
confidant. Not everyone is impressed: a sign inside the Santissima Annunziata church re-
minds the faithful to venerate Christ at the altar before sidling off to the side chapels. Des-
pite the request, many keep marching straight to the saints.
Topping the list of go-betweens is the Virgin
Mary, whose status as maternal protector
strikes a deep chord in a society where mothers
have always fiercely defended the rights of
their precious sons. Festival days in honour of
the Madonna are known to whip up mass hys-
teria, best exemplified by the annual Feast of
the Madonna dell'Arco. Held on Easter
Monday, it sees thousands of pilgrims called
fujenti
(Neapolitan for 'those who run') walk
barefoot to the Santuario della Madonna dell'Arco, located near the village of
In Naples, it is still possible to see elaborate,
coach-style hearses drawn by as many as eight
horses. It seems that while people die, the ob-
session with
fare bella figura
(keeping up ap-
pearances) does not.
