Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
AGROPOLI TO CASTELLABATE
Around 14km south of Agropoli is the former fishing village of
Santa Maria di Cas-
tellabate
. Head for the southernmost point, which still has a palatable southern Italian
feel with dusky pink-and-ochre sunbaked houses blinkered by traditional green shutters.
Santa Maria's golden sandy beach stretches for around 4km, which equals plenty of towel
space on the sand, even in midsummer.
Medieval Castellabate clings to the side of a mountain 280m above sea level and is one
of the most endearing and historic towns on the Cilento coast. Approached from its
coastal sidekick Santa Maria de Castellabate, the summit is marked by the broad
Belvedere di San Costabile
, from where there are sweeping coastal views. Flanking this
is the shell of a 12th-century castle, with only the defensive walls still standing, and the
adjacent art gallery. The surrounding labyrinth of narrow pedestrian streets is punctuated
by ancient archways, small piazzas and the occasional
palazzo
. The animated heart and
soul of town is the numerological mouthful Piazza 10 Ottobre 1123, with its panoramic
valley views of the Valle della Annunziata .
SAN MARCO DI CASTELLABATE TO ACCIAROLI
Heading south from Castellabate, the next stop is the pretty little harbour at
San Marco di
Castellabate,
overlooked by the handsome, ivy-clad Approdo hotel. This was once an im-
portant Greek and Roman port, and tombs and other relics have been discovered that are
now on view in the museum at Paestum. The area between Santa Maria di Castellabate
and San Marco is popular for diving; contact
Galatea
( 334 3485643, 0974 96 67 07;
San Marco di Castellabate marina; single dives from €45)
. San Marco's blue-flag beach
is a continuation of the sandy stretch from Santa Maria di Castellabate.
The coastal road heading south lacks the drama (views
and
traffic) of its Amalfi coun-
terpart but is still prettily panoramic. It's an area that Ernest Hemingway apparently rated
highly, particularly
Acciaroli
which, despite the disquieting amount of surrounding con-
crete, has a charming centre. Head for the sea and the peeling facade of the
Parrocchia di
Acciaroli
church with its abstract 1920s stained-glass windows. The surrounding streets
and piazzas have been tastefully restored using local stone and traditional architecture,
and the cafes, bars and restaurants have a buzzing, fashionable appeal.
PIOPPI TO PISCIOTTA
A short 10km hop south of Acciaroli is tiny picturesque
Pioppi
with its pristine, pale
pebble beach, and handful of shops and restaurants.
