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here becomes dramatically mountainous, with a wonderful marbled rock face (think rocky road ice
cream).
Follow signs eastwards on the SS19 to lovely Sicignano degli Alburni , taking in its 14th-century
castle, baroque churches and historic convent. Sicignano is also the kick-off point for the two hiking
trails that ascend Monte Alburno. Stay overnight at the nearby Sicinius agriturismo . Next day, continue
south on strada provinciale 35, passing the village of Petina dramatically straddling a high ridge.
Note that this is a fairly rough road; if you prefer more reliable tarmac, head north for the SS19, which is
similarly scenic and continues southeast, passing the turn-off to the fascinating Grotta dell'Angelo en
route.
The next stop is Polla , a strategic town during Roman times and lovely for a stroll, with its river-
front setting, 12th-century castle and brooding dark-stone houses. Pick up picnic fare here and take the
SS19 south (the A3 autovia is faster but not as scenic), following signs for Padula , where you can
spend the afternoon exploring the extraordinary Certosa di San Lorenzo . Follow the signs to stun-
ning Teggiano , around 15km northwest, and bristling with churches and museums, as well as a
cathedral and a castle. Stay overnight.
Bright and early on day three, head north until you hit the SS166. Follow the signs to
Sant'Angelo a Fasanella , a 13th-century town with a Roman bridge, medieval convents and churches,
plus an atmospheric centro storico . Continue west some 18km to Castelcivita, your starting point.
Eating
There remains a lot of poverty in the small villages that dot the park, but that can mean
simple, unadulterated food with hearty meat sauces made from mutton and goat. The flat
bread, focaccia , that you find all over Italy originally came from the Cilento region and
the buffala mozzarella is similarly famed.
Antichi Feudi €€
( 0975 58 73 29; Via San Francesco 2, Teggiano; meals €25, pizzas from €3) This gra-
cious restaurant is located within the sumptuous same-name boutique hotel just off Teg-
giano's elegant main piazza. The menu varies according to what is in season but typical
dishes include juicy chargrilled meat, grilled mussels with olive oil and lemon, and sea-
food soup. The hotel bar-cafe is good for pizza, including the tasty antichi feudi with
mushrooms, fresh cheese and grilled aubergines (€9). Reservations are recommended.
CAMPANIAN
Faunos Trattoria €
CAMPANIAN
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