Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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( 089 87 10 29; www.ristorantelacaravella.it ; Via Matteo Camera 12; meals €60, tast-
ing menu €75; Wed-Mon Jan-mid-Nov; ) The regional food here has recently
earned the restaurant a Michelin star with dishes that offer nouvelle zap - like black ravi-
oli with cuttlefish ink, scampi and ricotta - or that are unabashedly simple, like the catch
of the day served grilled on lemon leaves. This is one of the few places in Amalfi where
you pay for the food rather than the location, which in this case is far from spectacular,
sandwiched between the rushing traffic of the road and the old arsenale. But that doesn't
worry the discreet, knowledgeable crowd who eat here. Wine aficionados are likely to find
something to try on the 15,000-label list. Reservations essential.
Il Teatro €€
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( 089 87 24 73; Via E Marini 19; meals €25; ) This superb no-fuss trattoria is
tucked away in the atmospheric backstreets of the centro storico . The old-fashioned in-
terior has a series of arches and walls decorated with black-and-white photos and assorted
bric-a-brac. Seafood specialities include pesce spada il teatro (swordfish in a tomato,
caper and olive-oil sauce), plus there are some good vegetarian options, including scialati-
elli al teatro (pasta with tomatoes and aubergines).
TRATTORIA
SEAFOOD
La Taverna del Duca €€
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( 089 87 27 55; Piazza Spirito Santo 26; pizzas from €7, meals €35; Fri-Wed) Grab
a chair on the square at this popular restaurant complete with its fishy reputation. Specials
vary according to the catch of the day but might include carpaccio di baccalà (thin strips
of raw salted cod) or linguine with scampi. Or go for a pasta dish like pasta fagioli e cozze
(with mussels and beans). There's an excellent and generous antipasti spread and the in-
terior is elegant, with candles on the tables and tasteful oil paintings on the walls.
SEAFOOD
Lo Smeraldino €€
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( 089 87 10 70; www.ristorantelosmeraldino.it ; Piazzale dei Protontini 1, Lungomare
dei Cavalieri ; meals €30, pizzas around €9; Thu-Tue, Mar-Dec) Head eastwards past
Marina Grande to reach this inviting blue-and-white beachside restaurant overlooking the
fishing boats. As well as crisp-based pizzas, this is a good place for fancy risottos, like
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