Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
during summer. You can also catch a water taxi (€10) from Positano Boats (
339
2539207; www.positanoboats.info ) .
Shopping
Eramos Edone
( 089 87 40 75; Via Capriglione 140) These original ceramics painted in brilliant col-
ours feature primarily an ocean theme (think fish-shaped plates and the like). Opened in
2012, prices are fair; you can expect to pay around €25 for an exquisite butter dish that
will bring a little bit of Amalfi to your breakfast table every morning.
CERAMICS
WALK OF THE GODS
Probably the best-known walk on the Amalfi Coast, the 12km, six-hour Sentiero degli Dei (Walk of
the Gods) follows the steep paths linking Positano to Praiano. The walk commences at Via Chiesa
Nuova , just north of the SS163 road, in the northern part of Positano. Head to the right of the church
and climb the steps at the end of the narrow road. Cross over and take the steps to your left, where you
will see the official beginning of the route marked by red and white stripes; these are repeated along
the path, usually daubed on rocks and trees, although some of these have become worn and might be
difficult to make out. For a less arduous climb at the beginning of the trail, catch a bus from Positano
to Nocelle and start from there (the walk is marked).
Not advised for vertigo sufferers, it's a spectacular, meandering trail along the top of the mountains
with caves and terraces that plummet dramatically from the cliffs to deep valleys framed by the brilli-
ant blue of the sea. It can sometimes be foggy in the dizzy heights but that somehow adds to the
drama, with the cypresses rising through the mist like dark shimmering sword blades.
Don't miss the huge hole in the centre of the cliff at Montepertuso , where it looks as if some irate
giant has punched through the slab of limestone. The local legend is a holier one: apparently the Virgin
Mary, in a contest with the Devil, made the hole by simply touching the rock with her hand. In Prai-
ano , you can catch a bus back to Positano but, if you want the more challenging version of this hike,
then instead of heading down to the coast and Praiano, turn left to the (signposted) small town of
Bomerano , near Agerola, in the mountains between Sorrento and Amalfi.
You can pick up a map of this walk at the tourist office. Hiking maps can also be downloaded at
www.amalficoastweb.com and www.grottedellangelo.sa.it . Another reliable regional hiking map is the
CAI (Club Alpino Italiano; Italian Alpine Club) Monti Lattari, Peninsola Sorrentina, Costiera Amalf-
itana: Carta dei Sentieri (€9) at 1:30,000. If you prefer a guided hike, there are a number of reliable
local guides including American Frank Carpegna ( www.walkingwiththegods.com ) , a longtime resid-
ent here, and Zia Lucy ( www.zialucy.it ) .There are also weekly informal hikes throughout the penin-
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