Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ISCHIA ON A FORK
Ischian restaurateur Carlo Buono gives the low-down on his cherished classic island cuisine:
'Fresh, seasonal ingredients are the cornerstone of Ischian cooking, from silky olive oil to plump
pomodorini
(cherry tomatoes). Like Neapolitan cooking, the emphasis is on simple, uncomplicated
home cooking using premium produce. Traditionally, there are two types of Ischian cuisine: coastal
and mountain. For centuries, the fishermen of Lacco Ameno and Sant'Angelo would barter with the
farmers of Barano and Serrara Fontana, who'd offer wine, vegetables, pork and rabbit in exchange for
the fishermen's catch.
'Indeed, rabbit is a typical Ischian meat and we're seeing a revival of the traditional
fossa
(pit)
breeding method, where rabbits are bred naturally in deep
fosse
instead of in cages. The result is a
more tender, flavoursome meat. Leading this renaissance is local Slow Food advocate Riccardo
D'Ambra, whose famous trattoria Il Focolare (
Click here
) is well known for its rabbit and rustic
mountain dishes. Definitely worth eating on the island is a popular Sunday dish called
coniglio
all'ischitana
(Ischia-style rabbit), which is prepared with olive oil, unpeeled garlic, chilli, tomato,
basil, thyme and white wine.
'Like the land, the sea is seasonal, so the seafood that we cook depends on the time of year. Typical
local fish include
pesce bandiera
(sailfish), the flat
castagna
,
lampuga
and
palamide
(a small tuna). A
popular way of cooking it is in
acqua pazza
(crazy water). Traditionally prepared on the fishing boats,
it's a delicate sauce made with
pomodorini
, garlic and parsley. Fried fish is also very typical; a fresh
serve of
frittura di mare
(mixed fried seafood) drizzled with lemon juice is just superb. May to
September is
totano
(squid) season and a great time to try
totani imbotti
(squid stuffed with olives,
capers and breadcrumbs, and stewed in wine).
'Equally wonderful is fresh, wood-fired
casareccio
bread. Soft and dense on the inside and crunchy
on the outside, it's perfect for doing the
scarpetta
(wiping your plate clean) or for filling with salami or
parmigiano
cheese. If you have any room left, track down a slice of
torta caprese
, a moist chocolate
and almond cake.
Buon appetito
.'
Drinking & Entertainment
Ischia is not Ibiza. That said, the area around Ischia Porto has the best buzz, with a hand-
ful of bars and clubs that stay open way past cocoa time.
Bar Calise
( 081 99 12 70; Piazza degli Eroi 69, Ischia Porto; 7pm-3am Thu-Sun)
One of the
oldest bars on the island, located near the harbour, the atmosphere here is one of languid
BAR
