Travel Reference
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kinky knickers, frocks and shoes, to pots and pans. Many shops close for two weeks in
August.
CENTRO STORICO & MERCATO
Scriptura
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( Via San Sebastiano 22; 3-8pm Mon, 10.30am-8pm Tue-Sat; Dante) Family-run
Scriptura crafts beautiful, soft leather goods using top-shelf Tuscan leather. Its range in-
cludes handbags, satchels, wallets, belts and leather-bound notebooks, with styles and col-
ours covering both the classic and the contemporary. Best of all, prices are reasonable,
with bags starting from €36 and wallets from €30.
LEATHER GOODS
Kiphy
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( 393 8703280; www.kiphy.it ; Vico San Domenico Maggiore 3; 10.30am-2pm &
3-7pm Tue-Sat, closed Sat Jun-Aug; Dante) Named after a fabled ancient Egyptian
perfume, this funky shop-workshop sells pure, handmade slabs of soap that look as beauti-
ful as they smell. Lined up under low-slung lights, varieties include a refreshing orange-
and-cinnamon blend. The freshly made shampoos, creams and oils use organic, fair-trade
ingredients and can be personally tailored. Best of all, products are gorgeously packaged,
reasonably priced and made with love.
BEAUTY
La Scarabattola
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( 081 29 17 35; www.lascarabattola.it ; Via dei Tribunali 50; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat;
C55 to Via Duomo) Not only have La Scarabattola's handmade sculptures of magi
(wise men), devils and Neapolitan folk figures featured in top exhibitions (including the
Venice Biennale), their fans include Spanish royalty. Figurines aside, their sleek, contem-
porary ceramic creations (think Pulcinella-inspired place-card holders) make for some
urbane souvenirs. Ask nicely and you might just get to see the masters in action at their
nearby workshop.
ARTS & CRAFTS
Ars Neapolitana
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ARTS & CRAFTS
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