Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the specialty
granseola con vermicelli
(crab with vermicelli pasta). The homemade tiram-
isu makes for an unforgettable epilogue.
SEAFOOD
Trattoria Castel dell'Ovo €€
( 081 764 63 52; Via Luculliana 28; meals €35; lunch & dinner Fri-Wed, closed
Sun dinner Nov-Apr; 154 to Via Santa Lucia)
While locals dismiss many of the bigger
restaurants on Borgo Marinaro as tourist traps, they adore this cheaper, third-generation
bolthole. Sit beside bobbing boats and tuck into surf staples like
zuppa di pesce
(fish
soup),
alici fritte
(fried anchovies) and
insalata di polipo
(octopus salad with fresh to-
mato). Consider booking ahead (same day usually suffices), and bring cash as credit cards
are not accepted.
Da Ettore €€
( 081 764 35 78; Via Gennaro Serra 39; meals €25; lunch daily, dinner Tue-Sat;
R2 to Piazza Trieste e Trento)
This homely, eight-table trattoria has an epic reputation.
Scan the walls for famous fans like comedy great Totò, and a framed passage from crime
writer Massimo Siviero, who mentions Ettore in one of his tales. Casting the spell are sol-
id regional dishes like the signature
pasta patata e provola
(pasta with potato and provola
cheese). Book two days ahead for Sunday lunch.
CAMPANIAN
Antica Osteria Da Tonino €€
( 081 42 15 33; Via Santa Teresa a Chiaia 47; meals €18; lunch daily, dinner Fri
& Sat; Piazza Amedeo)
Quick-witted octogenarian Tonino (nicknamed JR by his wife)
is still going strong, just like his heirloom
osteria
. At the front, time-pressed
signore
pick
up their takeaway orders, while at the few packed tables, Rubinacci suits, old-timers and
the odd Nobel Prize winner (Dario Fo ate here) tuck into simple homecooking like
rigatoni ragù e ricotta
(rigatoni in a meat and ricotta sauce).
ITALIAN
PASTICCERIA
Moccia €
