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ciliani to a runny, rummy babà . Savoury fiends shouldn't pass up the hearty pasticcino
rustico , stuffed with provola cheese, ricotta and salami.
PIZZA
Pizzeria Vesi €
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( 081 29 99 95; Via dei Tribunali 388; pizzas from €3; noon-5pm & 7pm-1am;
Dante) If Gino Sorbillo is closed, this popular pizzeria makes for a handy back-up plan.
The pizzas are more than decent and there's warm-weather alfresco seating for voyeuristic
noshing.
TOLEDO & QUARTIERI SPAGNOLI
CAMPANIAN
Trattoria San Ferdinando €€
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( 081 42 19 64; www.trattoriasanferdinando.net ; Via Nardones 117; meals €30;
lunch Mon-Sat, dinner Wed-Fri; R2 to Piazza Trieste e Trento) Hung with theatre
posters and playbills, saffron-hued San Ferdinando pulls in well-spoken theatre types and
intellectuals. For a Neapolitan taste trip, ask for a rundown of the day's antipasti and
choose your favourites for an antipasto misto (mixed antipasto). Seafood standouts in-
clude a delicate seppia ripieno (stuffed squid), while the homemade desserts make for a
satisfying dénouement.
Il Garum €€
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( 081 542 32 28; Piazza Monteoliveto 2A; meals €35; lunch & dinner; Toledo)
Rustic yet genteel, softly lit Il Garum is a sound spot for delicately flavoured, revamped
classics. Stand out dishes include rigatoni with shredded courgettes (zucchini) and mus-
sels, and an exquisite grilled calamari stuffed with seasonal vegetables and cheese. Just
leave room for desserts like torta di ricotta e pera (ricotta and pear cake), all proudly
made on-site.
ITALIAN
Kukai €€
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JAPANESE
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