Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 081 551 70 31; Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 19; pastries from €1.50;
7.20am-8.40pm; Dante)
In a city infamous for belt-busting temptations, this piazza-
side
pasticceria
enjoys cult status. While you'll find all the local classics (including a par-
ticularly luscious
babà
), the star attraction is the
ministeriale
. A dark-chocolate medalli-
on invented in the 19th century, the ingredients of its liqueur-laced ganache filling are a
closely guarded secret.
Trattoria Mangia e Bevi €
( 081 552 95 46; Via Sedile di Porto 92; meals €7; lunch Mon-Fri; Università)
Utterly unmissable, this loud and lively trattoria sees everyone from pierced students to
bespectacled
professori
squeeze around the communal tables for brilliant home cooking at
rock-bottom prices. Scan the daily-changing menu, jot down your choices and prepare
yourself for gems such as grilled
provola
cheese, juicy
salsiccia
(pork sausage) and
pep-
eroncino
-spiked
friarielli
(local broccoli).
The
casareccio
bread is crunchy perfection and best washed down with a plastic cup of
vino.
CAMPANIAN
Angelo Carbone €
( 081 45 78 21; Largo Regina Coeli 4-8; pastries from €1; 7am-8pm; Piazza
Cavour, Museo)
Off the tourist trail but well on the radar of locals, this chintzy bar-pastic-
ceria-
rosticceria
makes one seriously buttery
sfogliatella
(sweet ricotta-filled pastries),
not to mention a heavenly
pasticcino crema e amarena
(a short-pastry bun filled with
cherries and custard). Savoury options include satisfying
panini
(€2.50) and there's al-
fresco seating beside the frescoed porticos of the Chiesa Santa Maria Regina Coeli oppos-
ite.
PASTICCERIA
Attanasio €
( 081 28 56 75; Vico Ferrovia 1-4; snacks from €1.10; 6.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun;
Garibaldi)
So you thought a
sfogliatella
from Pintauro was crispy perfection? Bite in-
to the piping-hot ricotta filling at this retro pastry pedlar and prepare to reassess. But why
stop there with so many trays of fresh, plump treats on show, from creamy
cannolli si-
SNACKS
