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an escarole, olives and provola cheese version, and both come in a snack-size version,
called batti l'occhio .
SNACKS, PIZZA
Di Matteo €
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( 081 45 52 62; Via dei Tribunali 94; snacks €0.50, pizzas from €2.50; 9am-mid-
night Mon-Sat; C55 to Via Duomo) Di Matteo's golden crocchè (potato croquettes) are
like a culinary cuddle. In fact, the little street stall at this no-frills pizzeria sells some of
the city's best fried snacks, from pizza fritta to nourishing arancini (fried rice balls). If
you're after a sit-down feed, head inside for trademark sallow lighting, surly waiters, and
lip-smacking pizzas, best washed down with a cold bottled beer.
Gay-odin €
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( 081 551 07 94; www.gay-odin.it ; Via Benedetto Croce 61; ice cream from €1.70;
9am-8.15pm Sun-Thu, to 11.30pm Fri & Sat; Dante) Not so much a chocolatier as an
institution, Gay-odin concocts some of the city's finest cocoa creations, including oh-so-
Neapolitan chocolate ' cozze' (mussels). For a punch to the palate, try the chocolate-
coated coffee beans or the fiery peperoncino-cioccolato (chilli-chocolate) combo. This
branch also sells Gay-odin's sublime ice cream; they produce the city's best non-sorbet
flavours.
CHOCOLATE
Timpani & Tempura €
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( www.timpanietempura.it ; Vico della Quercia 17; timbali dishes €9; deli
9.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sat, to 3.30pm Mon & Sun, lunch from 12.30pm; Dante) Aside
from stocking gorgeous regional cheeses, wines, pasta, jams and other pantry must-haves,
this tiny Slow Food deli serves comforting timbali - baked pasta tortes originating in
18th-century Neapolitan court cuisine. Varieties include paccheri in piedi (ricotta, fior di
latte cheese and San Marzano tomato) and the hearty sartù (rice, peas, meat balls, provola
cheese and chicken livers).
CAMPANIAN, DELI
Scaturchio €
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PASTICCERIA
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