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are two other Sorbillo pizzerias on the same block, all from one family of 21 pizza-mak-
ing siblings. Gino's pizzas are gigantic, tasty and best followed by a velvety semifreddo ,
made fresh by renowned pasticceria Scaturchio ( Click here ) . We're addicted to the
chocolate and torroncino (almond nougat) combo.
Done, check out the converted condom vending machine in the basement, now dispens-
ing Neapolitan lucky charms. It's one of several in-house works by artistic duo Ulderico
& Ognissanti.
OSTERIA, ITALIAN
La Stanza del Gusto €€
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( 081 40 15 78; www.lastanzadelgusto.com ; Via Costantinopoli 100; lunch special
€13, degustation menus €35-65; 11am-midnight Tue-Sat, lunch only Sun ; Dante)
Focussed on top-quality ingredients and artisinal producers, 'The Taste Room' offers a
trendy ground-floor 'cheese bar', a more-formal restaurant upstairs, and a small basement
provedore selling deli treats and wines. Frankly, the degustation menus aren't great value,
with hit-and-miss 'modern Italian' dishes and patchy service. The 'cheese room',
however, is utterly perfetto for get-in-the-know cheese, salumi (sliced cured meats) and
vino sessions.
Campagnola €€
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( 081 45 90 34; Via dei Tribunali 47; meals €18; closed Tue; Dante) A change
of ownership has breathed new life into this old stalwart. Spruced up with local art and
friendly, young waitstaff, its soul-coaxing grub includes some lip-licking pasta dishes, in-
cluding a killer genovese (pasta with a slow-cooked lamb, tomato and onion ragù), and a
wonderfully refreshing spaghetti olive e caperi (with olives and capers). The rum-soaked
babà is exceptional.
CAMPANIAN
La Masardona €
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( Via Capaccio Giulio Cesare 27; pizza fritta small/regular from €2.50/4; 7am-3.30pm
Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, to 10.30pm Sat; Garibaldi) Naples' iconic pizza fritta - deep-
fried pizza dough stuffed with pork ciccioli (dried lard cubes), salami, ham, smoked pro-
vola, ricotta, tomato - is best savoured at this no-frills, cult-status joint. Most regulars or-
der it senza ricotta (without ricotta), and wash it down with sweet marsala wine. There's
PIZZA FRITTA
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