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book and music store Feltrinelli ( Click here ) , where locals head to browse, exchange flir-
tatious glances and guzzle espresso at the in-store cafe.
VOMERO, CAPODIMONTE & LA SANITÀ
All roads might lead to Rome, but three Neapolitan funiculars lead to Vomero, a hilltop
neighbourhood where quasi-anarchy is replaced with mild-mannered professori , Liberty
villas and the stunning Certosa di San Martino.
Northeast of Vomero, former royal hunting ground Capodimonte boasts its own cultural
jewel in Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte, where names like Caravaggio, Botticelli and War-
hol grace its regal rooms.
In stark contrast, the rough-and-tumble Sanità district (squeezed between Via Foria and
Via Santa Teresa degli Scalzi directly south of Capodimonte) is a strangely bewitching
mix of bassi (one-room, ground-floor houses), baroque staircases and ancient catacombs.
To many, this is Naples at its earthiest and most authentic, a fact not lost on its growing
number of resident artists and bohemians. It's also the birthplace of Italian comic legend
Totò (at Via Santa Maria Antesaecula 109, to be precise!).
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