Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Begin your walk at the 15th-century city gate of
Porta Nolana
, its exterior wall featuring a
marble relief of Ferdinand I; illegitimate son of Alfonso V of Aragon who was also king of Naples
between 1458 to 1494. On the other side of the gate is a 17th-century bust of San Gaetano. These days,
Porta Nolana is better known as the gateway to the Mercato di Porta Nolana, whose booty of bakeries,
fishmongers, butchers, delis and grocers make for an appetising morning saunter.
After exploring the market's colours and scents, head west along Via Nolana. Cross Corso Umberto I,
head right into Via Egiziaca a Forcella and then right again into Via dell'Annunziata. A little way down
on your right you'll see the
Santissima Annunziata
, famous for its orphanage and
ruota
, the
wooden wheel where babies were once abandoned. Head back to Via Egiziaca a Forcella and turn right
into it. After crossing Via Pietro Colletta, follow the street as it veers left and merges into Via Vicaria
Vecchia. Where it meets the busy cross street, Via Duomo, stands one of Naples' oldest churches, the
Basilica di San Giorgio Maggiore
. Built by St Severus in the 4th century but thoroughly restyled
by Cosimo Fanzago in the mid-17th century, its original Palaeo-Christian apse is now part of the main
entrance. Two blocks northwest up Via Duomo soars Naples' cathedral, the
Duomo
. It is here that
thousands gather every May, September and December to witness San Gennaro's coagulated blood mira-
culously liquefy.
Double back down Via Duomo until you meet Via dei Tribunali. Known to the Romans as the
decu-
manus maior
, this street runs parallel to the
decumanus inferior
, aka Spaccanapoli, aka Via San Biagio
dei Librai. Before heading right into the very heart of the
centro storico
, quickly nip left to admire
Caravaggio's masterpiece
Le Sette Opere di Misericordia
(The Seven Acts of Mercy) in the
Pio
Monte della Misericordia
. Before you retrace your steps to Via Duomo, have a quick look at the
Guglia di San Gennaro
in the small square opposite the church. Dating back to 1636, with stonework
by Cosimo Fanzago and a bronze statue by Tommaso Montani, the obelisk is a soaring '
grazie
' to San
Gennaro for protecting Naples from the 1631 eruption of Mt Vesuvius.
After you've crossed Via Duomo make for Piazza San Gaetano, about 150m down on the right. The
tiny square where the Roman forum once stood is now dominated by the imposing
Basilica di San
Paolo Maggiore
, whose sumptuous baroque sacristy is one of the city's hidden delights. Opposite the
piazza, is the
Complesso Monumentale di San Lorenzo Maggiore
, its stark but beautiful Gothic
basilica sitting atop Roman
scavi
(excavations). Head underground for a peek before heading down
Via San Gregorio Armeno
. In December people come from all over Italy to visit the shops that line
this street. They specialise in the
presepi
(nativity scenes) that no traditional Italian house is without at
Christmas. Along this street you'll also find the
Chiesa e Chiostro di San Gregorio Armeno
, fam-
ous for its extravagant rococo interior and weekly miracle - the blood of Santa Patrizia is said to liquefy
here every Tuesday.
At the end of the road you hit Via San Biagio dei Librai. Turn right and after about 250m you'll be on
Piazzetta Nilo
, home to the Statua del Nilo, an ancient statue depicting Nilus, the ancient Greek
god of the River Nile. Less imposing is the altar to footballer Maradona on the wall opposite the statue.
Further down on the left, the
Chiesa di Sant'Angelo a Nilo
is home to an exquisite tomb whose
transitional style features both Gothic and Renaissance influences. From here it's only a few steps to
handsome
Piazza San Domenico Maggiore
, location of the imposing
Chiesa di San Domen-
