Eastern Anatolia - Discover Turkey: Experience the Best of Turkey - page 605

Next, continue east to (4) Kars , the disctinctive city where the Turkish Nobel laureate
Orhan Pamuk set his novel Kar (Snow) . A castle overlooks the surprising rows of Russi-
an belle époque mansions and Baltic architecture, built during the Russian occupation
(1878-1920).
Finally, head across the steppe to one of Turkey's most romantic ruins, (5) Ani . This
rubble-strewn field, dotted with circular churches, was a capital of both the Urartian and
Armenian kingdoms.
ŞANLIURFA TO VAN Eastern Delights
Pilgrimage town (1) Şanlıurfa (Urfa) is a gateway to the Middle East, with calls to prayer
resounding around its holy Gölbaşı area and Dergah mosque complex. The Ottoman
bazaar and courtyards of gents playing backgammon are a fitting introduction to mystical
southeastern Anatolia.
From Urfa, head 11km northeast to (2) Göbekli Tepe . The circular array of Neolithic
megaliths has carvings of lions, foxes and vultures. Next, head to the Anti-Taurus Range,
and the burial mound left by a hubristic Commagene king atop (3) Nemrut Dağı (Mt
Nemrut) , its summit covered with stone statuary.
Unwind on the Mesopotamian plains, where honey-coloured (4) Mardin is a gorgeous
heritage city with minarets rising from its lanes. Drift between mosques and museums, ab-
sorb the view from çay gardens and try local Assyrian wine.
Next, head northeast to mountain-ringed Lake Van, where motorboats buzz out to the
10th-century Armenian church on (5) Akdamar Island . Finish in (6) Van , a vibrant city
with a whole street dedicated to Turkish breakfasts, and an excellent base for further
lakeside adventures.