Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Underground Cities
During the 6th and 7th centuries, Byzantine Christians extended and enlarged Cappadocia's network of underground
cities, thought to have first been carved out by the Hittites. When Persian or Arab armies marauded through, Cap-
padocia's Christians would hide in these subterranean vaults for months at a time.
Many tours visit an underground city as part of a day trip. Touring the cities is rather like tackling an assault
course: narrow walkways lead into the depths of the earth, through stables with handles used to tether animals,
churches with altars and baptism pools, walls with air-circulation holes, granaries with grindstones, and blackened
kitchens with ovens. Be prepared for unpleasantly crowded and sometimes claustrophobic passages. Avoid visiting
on weekends, which are generally busy. It's worth having a guide: they can conjure up the details of life below
ground.
The cities' air shafts, which were disguised as wells, descend almost 100m in some cities. As new rooms were
constructed, debris would be excavated into the shafts, which would then be cleared and deepened so work could
begin on the next floor.
Around 37 underground cities have been opened and there are at least 100 more. It is thought that Derinkuyu and
Kaymaklı housed about 10,000 and 3000 people respectively.
Kaymaklı underground city (admission " 15; 8am-5pm, last admission 4.30pm) , a maze of tunnels
and rooms carved eight levels deep (four are open), is the most convenient and popular underground city. Get here
early in July and August to beat the tour groups, or from about 12.30pm to 1.30pm when they break for lunch.
Derinkuyu underground city (Deep Well; admission " 15; 8am-5pm, last admission 4.30pm) , 10km
south of Kaymaklı, has larger rooms on seven levels. When you reach the bottom, look up the ventilation shaft to
see just how far down you are.
Shopping
TRIBAL COLLECTIONS
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( 271 2400; Müze Caddesi 24; 9am-8pm) As well as being home to some mighty-fine
rugs, owners Ruth and Faruk are known for their highly recommended educationals (a
kind of carpets 101) which explain the history and artistry of these coveted textiles.
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