Ephesus, Bodrum & the South Aegean - Discover Turkey: Experience the Best of Turkey - page 354

Car-rental agencies, mostly on Neyzen Tevfik Caddesi, include Avis ( 316 2333;
www.avis.com ; Neyzen Tevik Caddesi 92a) and Neyzen Travel & Yachting ( 316 7204;
www.neyzen.com.tr ; Kibris Sehitleri Caddesi 34) . Cars are typically €45 to €65 per day, motor-
cycles and scooters €15 to €30 per day.
Bodrum Peninsula
The Bodrum Peninsula makes a beautiful day trip from Bodrum town, with exclusive re-
sorts and laid-back coastal villages where you can enjoy good swimming and stylish eats.
Despite the visible inroads of modern tourism, tradition and tranquillity are partially pre-
served by local open-air vegetable markets and the rugged coastline, overlooked by al-
most unpopulated hills in the peninsula's centre.
The ruins of Pedasa , on the main peninsula road near the Bitez turn-off, are a relic of
the lost Lelegian civilisation that predated the Carians. The small site features defensive
wall foundations and a ruined temple.
Bitez is a summer nightlife centre, but it remains an actual village, framed by lovely
orchards. The fine sandy beach is good for swimming, packed with umbrellas and loun-
gers, satellites of the restaurants and cafes behind them (some open year-round). On
weekends, seafront restaurants' brunch buffets have become quite the local tradition.
Ortakent's 3km sand beach is mostly the domain of packed lounge chairs by summer,
but the water here is nevertheless among the peninsula's cleanest (and coldest), due to
wave action. The eastern Scala Beach ( www.scalabeach.net ) is quieter.
The peninsula's second-largest village, Turgutreis , is a workaday place, but has 5km
of sandy beaches and over a dozen tiny islets. Its new marina offers ferries for Bodrum
town and Kos (Greece). Bodrum Ferryboat Association sails to/from Kos (30 minutes,
€15/20 one way/same-day return) daily.
Gümüşlük has been preserved from the worst tourist developments because it lies
around the ruins of ancient Carian Myndos, making it a protected archaeological zone.
The ruins disappear into the sea, continuing out to the facing Rabbit Island, which can be
reached by foot when the tide's low. Accessible from the main coastal road down a dirt
track, Gümüşlük has an escapist feel, and it's good for a swim and drink or fresh fish meal
at simple yet stylish eateries on the beach.
Near the upmarket village of Yalıkavak , the Dibek Sofrası ( www.dibeklihan.com ; Yakaköy
Çilek Caddesi; May-Oct) complex contains a restaurant, art gallery, museum and vineyard.
It exhibits Ottoman antiques such as jewelled daggers, antique fountain pens and ornate
coffee cups collected by the owners.