Gallipoli & the North Aegean - Discover Turkey: Experience the Best of Turkey - page 269

Bergama's sights are so spread out that it's hard to walk round them all in one day. The
Red Basilica is over 1km from the tourist office, the Asclepion is 2km away and the Acro-
polis is over 5km away.

Bus
Between 6am and 7pm, half-hourly buses run through town between the old otogar and
the market area ( " 2), 200m past the Red Basilica at the foot of the road (and the cable car)
up to the Acropolis.

Taxi
A convenient option is to book a 'city tour'. From the centre to the Asclepion, Red Ba-
silica and Acropolis, with 30 minutes at the first two sights and an hour at the latter,
should cost around " 50. Individual fares from the tourist office area are about " 8 to the
Asclepion, and " 15 to the Acropolis.

İzmir
0232 / POP 2.8 MILLION
The grand port city of İzmir, Turkey's third-largest, is a proudly liberal, long-time centre
of commerce that has emerged as a smart alternative base for travel in the west of the
country. Formerly the famed Greek city of Smyrna, İzmir lives by its kordon (seafront)
which, especially around leafy Alsancak, is as fetching and lively as any large seaside city
in the world.
With its Levantine and Jewish heritage, İzmir feels distinct from the rest of Turkey.
That's certainly not to say there aren't Turkish flags aplenty between the palms, but the
city does have a relatively liberal, laid-back atmosphere. İzmir is also developing a reputa-
tion for its cultural and civic foresight, turning formerly decrepit industrial buildings such
as the Old Gas Factory into communal and creative spaces.

Sights & Activities

KORDON & ALSANCAK
It's difficult to imagine life in İzmir without its iconic boulevard. A triumph of urban re-
newal, the kordon' s pedestrianised confines are home to a great selection of bars and res-

| Seafront, Neighbourhood