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to Alibey Island and dine on balık (fish) and rakı (aniseed brandy) at Balıkçı ('Fisher-
man') restaurant.
Next morning, take a day cruise across the Bay of Edremit to the twin villages of (3)
Behramkale and Assos . Eat some meze in one of Assos' many harbourside restaurants
and head uphill through Behramkale, where villagers set out stalls, to the ruined 6th-cen-
tury BC Temple of Athena.
BEHRAMKALE & ASSOS TO THE GALLIPOLI PENINSULA
Coastal Meander
Follow the previous itinerary to (1) Behramkale and Assos and, ferry schedules allow-
ing, continue to tiny (2) Bozcaada , perfectly appointed in the Aegean, with winemakers,
a medieval castle and a vine-draped old Greek neighbourhood. The mixed community of
islanders and İstanbullu escapees offers stylish hotels and rustic pensions.
Catch a ferry to (4) Çanakkale (or to Yükyeri İskelesi, allowing you to stop en route to
Çanakkale at the ruins of (3) Troy , of Trojan Horse fame). This friendly student town
makes a great base, with an attractive old quarter and a military museum featuring a rep-
lica minelayer. On the Çanakkale waterfront is the towering plywood horse that featured
in the Brad Pitt movie Troy .
A short ferry ride across the Dardanelles leads to the (5) Gallipoli Peninsula , where
memorials and cemeteries recall the 130,000 soldiers who died here in WWI. The north-
ern peninsula has the significant Anzac sites of Lone Pine and Chunuk Bair.
To reach İstanbul, head east along the north shore of the Sea of Marmara; or, head
along the south shore and take the ferry from Bandırma.
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