Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( www.hocapasa.com.tr ; Hocapaşa Sokak 19, Sirkeci; pides " 8-14; 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; Sirkeci)
On this pedestrianised street lined with cheap eateries, lokantas serve hazır yemek (ready-
made dishes), köftecis dish out flavoursome meatballs, kebapçis grill meat to order and
this much-loved pideçisi (opened in 1964) offers piping-hot pides accompanied by
pickles.
Bazaar District
FATIH DAMAK PIDE €
(Büyük Karaman Caddesi 48, Zeyrek; pides " 8-12; 11am-11pm; Aksaray) It's worth making the
trek to this unlicensed pideçisi overlooking the İtfaıye Yanı Park Karşısı (Fire Station
Park) near the Aqueduct of Valens. It makes the best Karadeniz (Black Sea)-style pide on
the Historic Peninsula, and free pots of tea are served with meals. Toppings are standard
(the sucuklu-peynirli option with sausage and cheese is tasty), but there's also an unusual
bafra pidesi (rolled-up pitta-style pizza). There's an organic open buffet brunch on week-
ends ( " 12.50).
| Pide
HAMDI RESTAURANT €€
Offline map Google map
| Kebap
( 212-528 8011; www.hamdirestorant.com.tr ; Kalçın Sokak 17, Eminönü; mezes " 7-15, kebaps " 20-28,
dessert " 7-15; Eminönü) Hamdi Arpacı serves tasty kebaps made according to recipes from
his hometown Şanlıurfa (Urfa). With phenomenal views from its top-floor terrace, the res-
taurant is always busy, so request a rooftop table when you book (or arrive early).
Detour:
Dolmabahçe Palace
Everyone from fans of the less-is-more aesthetic to enthusiasts of Ottoman architecture decry this final flourish of
the imperial dynasty, finding that it has more in common with the Paris Opera than with traditional pavilion-style
buildings such as Topkapı. But whatever the critics might say, the 19th-century imperial residence, Dolmabahçe
Palace (Dolmabahçe Sarayı; www.millisaraylar.gov.tr ; Dolmabahçe Caddesi, Beşiktaş; Selamlık " 30,
Harem " 20, joint ticket " 40; 9am-6pm Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun Mar-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Feb; Kabataş
then walk) , with its opulent Selamlık (Ceremonial Suites) and slightly more restrained Harem is a clear crowd fa-
vourite.
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