Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
is a 14th-century silver bust in which sit the skull of San Gennaro and the two phials that
hold his miraculously liquefying blood.
Below the high altar is the
Cappella Carafa
, a Renaissance chapel built to house yet more
of the saint's remains.
Off the north aisle sits one of Naples' oldest basilicas, dating to the 4th century. Incor-
porated into the main cathedral, the
Basilica di Santa Restituta
was subject to an almost com-
plete makeover after the earthquake of 1688. From it you can access Western Europe's
oldest
baptistry
, pimped with glittering 4th-century mosaics. At the time of writing, the
duomo
's subterranean
archaeological zone
- featuring the remains of Greek and Roman build-
ings and roads - was closed indefinitely.
If you're intrigued by Naples' cultish love affair with San Gennaro, consider popping
081 29 49 80;
www.museosangennaro.com
; Via Duomo 149; adult/ reduced €7/5; 9am-5pm Fri-Tue, to 3pm Thu; C55 to Via
Duomo)
; its glittering collection of precious ex-voto gifts includes bronze busts, silver am-
pullae, sumptuous paintings and a gilded 18th-century sedan chair used to shelter the
saint's bust on rainy procession days.
MADRE
ART GALLERY
(Museo d'Arte Contemporanea Donnaregina; 081 1931 3016;
www.coopculture.it
;
Via Settembrini 79; admission
€7, Mon free; 10am-7.30pm Mon & Wed-Sat, to 8pm Sun; Piazza Cavour)
Seek refuge from the an-
cient at Naples' impressive contemporary-art museum. While the 1st floor is dedicated to
specially commissioned installations (among them Rebecca Horn's eerie
Spirits
and
Francesco Clemente's erotically charged Neapolitan fresco
Ave Ovo
), the 2nd floor's
'Historical Collection' of modern painting, photography, sculpture and installations in-
cludes blockbuster names like Damien Hirst, Cindy Sherman and Olafur Eliasson.
The museum also hosts top-notch temporary exhibitions spanning local to international
artists.
Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo
( 081 551 86 13; Piazza del Gesù Nuovo; 7am-1pm & 4.15-8pm Mon-Sat, 7am-1.45pm Sun; Dante)
In a
case of architectural recycling, this 16th-century church actually sports the 15th-century,
Giuseppe Valeriani-designed facade of Palazzo Sanseverino, converted to create the
church. Inside, it's a baroque affair, with greats like Francesco Solimena, Luca Giordano
CHURCH
