Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Vine Revival
Winemaking in the south dates back to the Phoenicians. The Greeks introduced Campania
to its now-famous Greco (Greek) grape, and dubbed the south 'Enotria' (Wineland). Yet,
despite this ancient viticulture, oenophiles had often dismissed local
vini
(wines) as little
more than 'here for a good time, not a long time' drops. A case in point is wine critic Bur-
ton Anderson, who in his 1990
Wine Atlas of Italy
wrote that Campania's noteworthy wine-
makers could be 'counted on one's fingers'.
Anderson would need a few more hands these days. In little more than two decades,
southern Italy has transformed itself into one of the world's hottest in-the-know wine re-
gions, with renewed pride in native varieties and stricter, more modern winemaking prac-
tices.
Antonio Carluccio's
Southern Italian Feast: More Than 100 Recipes Inspired by the Flavour of Southern Italy,
is a splen-
did collection to inspire you to get cooking.
Campania
Campanian producers such as Feudi di San Gregorio, Mastroberardino, Terredora di Paolo
and Mustilli have returned to their roots, cultivating ancient grape varieties like the red
Aglianico (thought to be the oldest cultivated grape in Italy) and the whites Falanghino, Fi-
ano and Greco (all were growing long before Mt Vesuvius erupted in AD 79). Taurasi, a
full-bodied Aglianico wine, sometimes known as the Barolo of the south, is one of southern
Italy's finest labels. One of only three in the region to carry Italy's top quality rating,
DOCG (
Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita;
Controlled and Guaranteed
Denomination of Origin), it goes perfectly with barbequed and boiled meats. The other two
wines boasting the DOCG honour are the fresh, fragrant Fiano di Avellino and the dry,
bright Greco di Tufo, both seafood-friendly whites from the Avellino area.
Campania's other wine-producing areas include the Campi Flegrei (home to spicy Pied-
irosso and tangy Falanghina vines), Ischia (whose wines were the first to receive Denom-
inazione di Origine Controllata status) and the Cilento, home to the Cilento bianco (Cilento
white) and to the Aglianico Paestum. Mt Vesuvius' most famous drop is the dry Lacryma
Christi (Tears of Christ), a blend of locally grown Falanghina, Piedirosso and Coda di
Volpe grapes.
