Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Cult of Caffè
According to the Neapolitans, it's the local water that makes their coffee stronger and bet-
ter than any other in Italy. While the magic formula is up for debate, there's no doubting
that Naples brews the country's thickest, richest, most unforgettable espresso. Indeed, cof-
fee plays a venerable role in Neapolitan cultural identity. Celebrated Neapolitan folk
songs include
'O cafè
(Oh, coffee) and
A tazza 'e cafè
(The Cup of Coffee), while Italian
design company Alessi pays tribute to the city's distinctive, stove-top coffee maker with
its own
Caffettiera napoletana
(Neapolitan coffee maker), designed by prolific Neapolitan
artist Riccardo Dalisi.
New-World coffee capitals like Melbourne and Portland might innovate with single ori-
gin beans, lighter roasts, latte art and new brewing technologies, but in Naples, tradition
holds sway. Locals still favour the Arabica and Robusta blends that deliver a dense crema,
higher caffeine jolt, longer shelf life and, crucially, a price point everyone can afford.
While the city's most famous
torrefazioni
(roasters) include Kimbo and Moreno, its most
locally loved and respected brand remains San Passalacqua.
Whichever you choose, chances are you'll be savouring it standing up. In Naples, as in
the rest of Italy, drinking coffee at a bar is usually a moment to pause, but rarely linger.
It's a standing-up sniff, swirl and gulp, and an exchanged
buongiorno
or
buona sera
with
the barista, and a hop back onto the street. But don't be fooled - the speed with which it's
consumed does not diminish the importance of quality.
Magnificent Mozzarella
So you think the cow's milk mozzarella served in Capri's
insalata caprese
(a salad made
of mozzarella, tomato, basil and olive oil) is tasty? Try Campania's porcelain-white
moz-
zarella di bufala
(buffalo-milk mozzarella) and you'll move onto an entirely different
level of deliciousness. Made on the plains surrounding Caserta and Paestum, it's best
eaten when freshly made that morning - the delicate, sweet flavour and luscious texture is
nothing short of a revelation. You'll find it served in
trattorias
(informal restaurants) and
restaurants across the region. Sorrento even has a dedicated mozzarella eatery, Inn Bu-
falito. Bought fresh from
latterie
(dairies), it comes lukewarm in a plastic bag filled with a
slightly cloudy liquid, the run-off from the mozzarella making. Fresh mozzarella should
have an elastic consistency; a tight, smooth surface; and no yellowish marks or spots.
Sliced, it should appear grainy, layered, and seeping pearls of milky whey.
While the most common form is round and fresh,
mozzarella di bufala
also comes in a
twisted plait form
(treccia),
as well as smoked
(affumicata).
The most decadent variation
