Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
PANTELLERIA
Halfway between Trapani and Tunisia, this volcanic outcrop is Sicily's largest offshore island. Buffeted year-
round by winds, Pantelleria is characterised by jagged lava stone, low-slung caper bushes, dwarf vines, steaming
fumaroles and mudbaths. There are no true beaches, but Pantelleria's gorgeous, secluded coves - including
Cala
Tramontana
,
Cala Levante
and
Balata dei Turchi
- are perfect for snorkelling, diving and boat excursions.
The island has excellent hiking trails, along the coast and in the high vineyard country of
Piana di Ghirlanda
.
Near
Mursia
on the west coast, there are signposted but poorly maintained remnants of
sesi
(Bronze Age funer-
ary monuments). Throughout the island you'll also find Pantelleria's famous
dammusi
(houses with thick, white-
washed walls and shallow cupolas). The island's exotic and remote atmosphere has long made it popular with
celebrities, including Truman Capote, Sting, Madonna and Giorgio Armani.
Darwin (
Click here
) offers regular flights to Pantelleria from Palermo and Trapani, and
Siremar
(
www.siremar.it
)
runs one ferry daily to/from Trapani (€34, six hours).
For further information about Pantelleria see
www.pantelleria.com
.
WORTH A TRIP
SICILY'S OLDEST NATURE RESERVE
Saved from development and road projects by local protests, the tranquil
Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro
(
092 43 51 08;
www.riservazingaro.it
;
adult €3, child 8-14yr €2, under 8yr or over 65yr free; 7am-7.30pm
Apr-Sep, 8am-4pm Oct-Mar) is the star attraction on the Golfo di Castellammare, halfway between Palermo and
Trapani. Founded in 1981, this was Sicily's first nature reserve. Zingaro's wild coastline is a haven for the rare
Bonelli's eagle along with 40 other species of bird. Mediterranean flora dusts the hillsides with wild carob and
bright yellow euphorbia, and hidden coves, such as Capreria and Marinella Bays, provide tranquil swimming
spots. The main entrance to the park is 2km north of the village of Scopello. Several walking trails are detailed on
maps available free at the entrance or downloadable from the park website. The main 7km trail along the coast
passes by the visitor centre and five museums documenting everything from local flora and fauna to traditional
fishing methods.
Once home to tuna fishers, Scopello now mainly hosts tourists, although outside of peak summer season it re-
tains some of its sleepy village atmosphere. Its port, 1km below town, has a picturesque beach backed by a rust-
red
tonnara
(tuna-processing plant) and dramatic
faraglioni
(rock towers) rising from the water.
Pensione Tranchina
( 092 454 10 99;
www.pensionetranchina.com
; Via Diaz 7; B&B per person
€36-46, half-board per person €55-72; ) is the nicest of several places to stay and eat clustered around the
cobblestoned courtyard at Scopello's village centre. Friendly hosts Marisin and Salvatore offer comfortable
rooms, a roaring fire on chilly evenings and delicious home-cooked meals featuring local fish and home-grown
fruit and olive oil.
TOP OF CHAPTER
