Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
I Cuochini
(Via Ruggero Settimo 68; snacks from €0.70; 8.30am-2.30pm Mon-Sat, plus 4.30-7.30pm Sat)
Hidden inside
a little courtyard off Via Ruggero Settimo, this long-standing Palermitan favourite special-
ises in low-cost snacks, including delicious
arancinette
(rice balls filled with meat sauce)
and divine
panzerotti
(stuffed fried dough pockets). The latter come in countless delect-
able varieties: ricotta and mint, zucchini blossoms and cheese, mozzarella, cherry toma-
toes and anchovies, just to name a few.
STREET FOOD
€
Pasticceria Cappello
(
www.pasticceriacappello.it
; Via Nicoló Garzilli 10; 7am-9.30pm Thu-Tue)
Famous for the
setteveli
(seven-layer chocolate cake) that was invented here - and has long since been copied all
over Palermo - this upscale bakery-cafe with its boudoir-style back room creates splendid
pastries and desserts of all kinds. Not to be missed is the dreamy
delizia di pistacchio
, a
granular pistachio cake topped with creamy icing and a chocolate medallion.
PASTRIES & CAKES
€
Antico Caffè Spinnato
( 091 32 92 20;
www.spinnato.it
; Via Principe di Belmonte 107-15; 7am-1am Sun-Fri, to 2am Sat)
At this
sophisticated cafe dating back to 1860, Palermitans throng the pavement tables daily to
enjoy afternoon piano music, coffee, cocktails, ice cream, sumptuous cakes and snacks.
CAFE
€
Trattoria Il Maestro del Brodo
(Via Pannieri 7; meals €19-30; 12.30-3.30pm Tue-Sun, 8-11pm Fri & Sat)
This no-frills, Slow
Food-recommended eatery in the Vucciria offers delicious soups, an array of ultra-fresh
seafood, and a sensational antipasto buffet (€8) featuring a dozen-plus homemade delic-
acies:
sarde a beccafico
(stuffed sardines), eggplant involtini, smoked fish, artichokes
with parsley, sun-dried tomatoes, olives and more.
TRATTORIA
€€
Trattoria Ai Cascinari
( 091 651 98 04; Via d'Ossuna 43/45; meals €20-28; lunch Tue-Sun, dinner Wed-Sat)
Friendly service,
simple straw chairs and blue-and-white-checked tablecloths set the relaxed tone at this
Slow Food-recommended neighbourhood trattoria, 1km north of the Cappella Palatina.
Locals pack the labyrinth of back rooms, while waiters circulate non-stop with plates of
SICILIAN
€€
