Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
designated as one of the country's borghi più belli (most beautiful towns). Beside its 13th-
century Chiesa Matrice and Torre Civica there's a pretty communal garden with rural views. If
you take Via Basilioni next to the tower you can amble along an elegant route right to the
central piazza, Vittorio Emanuele.
Just outside the historic centre, the tourist office ( 080 444 66 61; www.prolococisternino.it ; Via San
Quirico 18; 10.15am-12.15pm & 4.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat) is not always open but can advise on B&Bs
in the historic centre.
Cisternino has a grand tradition of fornello pronto (ready-to-go roast or grilled meat)
and in numerous butchers' shops and trattorias you can select a cut of meat, which is then
promptly cooked on the spot. Try it under the whitewashed arches at no-frills but hugely
popular Rosticceria L'Antico Borgo (
080 444 64 00; www.rosticceria-lanticoborgo.it ; Via Tarantini 9; roast
meat €18-28) .
Cisternino is accessible by regular trains from Bari (€6, 45 minutes).
Martina Franca
POP 49,800
The old quarter of this town is a picturesque scene of winding alleys, blinding white
houses and blood-red geraniums. There are graceful baroque and rococo buildings here
too, plus airy piazzas and curlicue ironwork balconies that almost touch above the narrow
streets. This town is the highest in the Murgia, and was founded in the 10th century by
refugees fleeing the Arab invasion of Taranto. It only started to flourish in the 14th cen-
tury when Philip of Anjou granted tax exemptions ( franchigie, hence Franca); the town
became so wealthy that a castle and defensive walls complete with 24 solid bastions were
built.
Sights & Activities
The beauty of Martina Franca encourages wandering around the centro storico' s narrow
lanes and alleyways.
Passing under the baroque Arco di Sant'Antonio at the western end of pedestrianised Piazza
XX Settembre, you emerge into Piazza Roma, dominated by the imposing, austere 17th-
century Palazzo Ducale , built over an ancient castle and now used as municipal offices.
From Piazza Roma, follow the fine Corso Vittorio Emanuele, with baroque town
houses, to reach Piazza Plebiscito, the centre's baroque heart. The piazza is overlooked by
 
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