Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
10am-1pm Nov-mid-Mar) or the Osservatorio Astronomico Sirio ( 080 499 82 13; admission €4) ,
with its telescope and solar filters allowing for maximum solar-system visibility. Guided
visits only with advance notification.
The grotto can be reached by rail from Bari on the FSE Bari-Taranto train line but not
all trains stop at Grotte di Castellana. However, all services stop at Castellana Grotte
(€2.90, 50 minutes, roughly hourly), 2km before the grotto, from where you can catch a
local bus (€1.10) to the caves.
MASSERIAS: LUXURY ON THE FARM
Masserias are unique to southern Italy. Modelled on the classical Roman villa, these fortified farmhouses -
equipped with oil mills, cellars, chapels, storehouses and accommodation for workers and livestock - were built
to function as self-sufficient communities. These days, they still produce the bulk of Italy's olive oil, but many
have been converted into luxurious hotels, agriturismi (farm stay accommodation), holiday apartments or restaur-
ants. Staying in a masseria is a unique experience, especially when you can dine on home-grown produce.
The following masserias are recommended:
Il Frantoio ( 0831 33 02 76; www.trecolline.it ; SS16, Km 874; d €140-260, apt €320-350; ) Stay
in a charming, whitewashed farmhouse, where the owners still live and work, producing high-quality organic
olive oil. (Or else book yourself in for one of the marathon eight-course lunches; the food is superb.) Armando
takes guests for a tour of the farm each evening in his 1949 Fiat. Il Frantoio lies 5km outside Ostuni along the
SS16 in the direction of Fasano. You'll see the sign on your left-hand side when you reach the Km 874 sign.
Masseria Torre Coccaro ( 080 482 93 10; www.masseriatorrecoccaro.com ; Contrada Coccaro 8; d
€284-1365; ) For pure luxury, stay in this superchic yet countrified masseria . There's a glorious
spa set in a cave, a beach-style swimming pool, cooking courses on offer and a restaurant (meals €90) dishing up
home-grown produce.
Masseria Maizza ( www.masseriatorremaizza.com ; d €290-548, ste €422-1522; ) This farmhouse
is located next door to Masseria Torre Coccaro and run by the same people, so you know luxury is assured. The
two masserias share a balmy beach club (about 4km away) and a neighbouring golf course.
Borgo San Marco ( 080 439 57 57; www.borgosanmarco.it ; Contrada Sant'Angelo 33; s €130-140, d
€160-230; ) Once a borgo (medieval town), this masseria has 16 rooms, a spa in the orchard and is
traditional with a bohemian edge. Nearby are some frescoed rock churches. It's 8km from Ostuni; to get here take
the SS379 in the direction of Bari, exiting at the sign that says SC San Marco-Zona Industriale Sud Fasano, then
follow the signs. Note that there's a one-week minimum stay in August.
Alberobello
POP 11,000
Unesco World Heritage Site Alberobello resembles an urban sprawl - for gnomes. The
Zona dei Trulli on the western hill of town is a dense mass of 1500 beehive-shaped
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