Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Apostle. The fresco facing the crypt's altar is by Neapolitan baroque maestro Aniello Fal-
cone.
The pint-sized
Chiostro del Paradiso
was built in 1266 to house the tombs of Amalfi's
prominent citizens. From here you enter the
Basilica del Crucifisso
(closed January and Febru-
ary), the town's original 9th-century cathedral, itself built on the remains of an earlier
palaeo-Christian temple. It's home to a small but fascinating collection of ecclesial treas-
ures.
Museo della Carta
( 089 830 45 61;
www.museodellacarta.it
;
Via delle Cartiere 23; admission €4; 10am-6.30pm)
Amalfi's pa-
per museum is housed in a 13th-century paper mill (the oldest in Europe). It lovingly pre-
serves the original paper presses, which are still in full working order, as you'll see during
the 15-minute guided tour (three-day advance booking requested for English tour) which
explains the original cotton-based paper production and the later wood-pulp manufactur-
ing.
Clued up, you may well be inspired to pick up some of the stationery sold in the gift
shop, alongside calligraphy sets and paper pressed with flowers.
MUSEUM
Museo Arsenale Amalfi
( 089 87 11 70; Largo Cesareo Console 3; admission €2; 10am-1.30pm & 3.30-7pm)
Amalfi's other mu-
seum of note is home to the
Tavole Amalfitane,
an ancient manuscript draft of Amalfi's
maritime code, and other historical documents. Harking back to Amalfi's days as a great
maritime republic, the museum is housed in the cavernous Arsenale, once the town's main
shipbuilding depot.
MUSEUM
Activities
For all its seafaring history, Amalfi's main beach is not a particularly appealing swimming
spot. If you're intent on a dip, think about hiring a boat. You'll find a number of operators
along Lungomare dei Cavalieri, charging about €50 for a couple of hours.
GROTTO
Grotta dello Smeraldo
(Emerald Grotto; admission €5; 9am-4pm summer, to 3pm winter)
Four kilometres west of Amalfi,
Conca dei Marini is home to one of the coast's most popular sights. Named after the eerie
emerald colour that emanates from the water, the Grotta dello Smeraldo is well worth a
visit. Stalactites hang down from the 24m-high ceiling, while stalagmites grow up to 10m
