Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
AMALFI COAST
Stretching about 50km along the southern side of the Sorrentine Peninsula, the Amalfi
Coast (Costiera Amalfitana) is one of Europe's most breathtaking. Cliffs terraced with
scented lemon groves sheer down into sparkling seas; sherbet-hued villas cling precari-
ously to unforgiving slopes while sea and sky merge in one vast blue horizon.
Yet its stunning topography has not always been a blessing. For centuries after the
passing of Amalfi's glory days as a maritime superpower (from the 9th to the 12th centur-
ies), the area was poor and its isolated villages were regular victims of foreign incursions,
earthquakes and landslides. But it was this very isolation that first drew visitors in the early
1900s, paving the way for the advent of tourism in the latter half of the century. Today the
Amalfi Coast is one of Italy's premier tourist destinations, a favourite of cashed-up jet-set-
ters and love-struck couples.
The best time to visit is in spring or early autumn. In summer the coast's single road
(SS163) gets very busy and prices are inflated; in winter much of the coast simply shuts
down.
WALK THE COAST
Rising steeply from the coast, the densely wooded Lattari mountains provide some stunning walking opportunities.
An extraordinary network of paths traverses the craggy, precipitous peaks, climbing to remote farmhouses through
wild and beautiful valleys. It's tough going, though - long ascents up seemingly endless flights of steps are almost
unavoidable.
Probably the best-known walk, the 12km Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods; 5½ to six hours) follows the
steep, often rocky paths linking Positano to Praiano. It's a spectacular trail passing through some of the area's least
developed country- side. The route is marked by red-and-white stripes daubed on rocks and trees, although some of
these have become worn in places and might be difficult to make out. Pick up a map of the walk at local tourist of-
fices, included in a series of three excellent booklets containing the area's most popular hikes, including the equally
famed, and lyrically named, Via degli Incanti (Trail of Charms) from Amalfi to Positano.
To the west, the tip of the Sorrentine Peninsula is another hiking hot spot. Some 110km of paths criss-cross the
area, linking the spectacular coastline with the rural hinterland. These range from tough all-day treks - such as the
14.1km Alta Via dei Monti Lattari from the Fontanelle hills near Positano down to the Punta Campanella - to
shorter walks suitable for the family. Tourist offices throughout the area can provide maps detailing the colour-
coded routes. With the exception of the Alta Via dei Monti Lattari (marked in red and white), long routes are
shown in red on the map; coast-to-coast trails in blue; paths connecting villages in green; and circular routes in yel-
low.
If you're intent on trying one of the more demanding routes in the region, invest in a detailed map such as
Monti
Lattari, Penisola Sorrentina, Costiera Amalfitana: Carta dei Sentieri
(€9) at 1:30,000 scale by Club Alpino Itali-
ano (CAI). If you prefer a guided hike, there are a number of reliable local guides, including
Zia Lucy
(
www.zialucy.it)
.
