Naples & Campania - Southern Italy - page 144

famous depiction of Priapus whose oversized phallus balances on a pair of scales…much
to the anxiety of many a male observer.
Villa dei Misteri
From the Casa del Fauna, follow the road west and turn right into Via Consolare, which
takes you out of the town through Porta Ercolano MAP GOOGLE MAP . Continue past Villa di
Diomede and you'll come to the 90-room Villa dei Misteri, one of the most complete structures
left standing in Pompeii. The Dionysiac frieze, the most important fresco still on site,
spans the walls of the large dining room. One of the largest paintings from the ancient
world, it depicts the initiation of a bride-to-be into the cult of Dionysus, the Greek god of
wine. A farm for much of its life, the villa's own vino-making area is still visible at the
northern end.

Sleeping & Eating
There's really no need to stay overnight in Pompeii. The ruins are best visited on a day
trip from Naples, Sorrento or Salerno, and once the excavations close for the day, the area
around the site becomes decidedly seedy. Most of the restaurants near the ruins are char-
acterless affairs set up for feeding busloads of tourists. Wander down to the modern town
and it's a little better, with a few decent restaurants serving excellent local food.
If you'd rather eat at the ruins, the on-site cafeteria MAP GOOGLE MAP (Via di Mercurio)
peddles the standard choice of panini , pizza slices, salads, hot meals and gelato. You'll
find it near the Tempio di Giove.

President

CAMPANIAN €€

( 081 850 72 45; www.ristorantepresident.it ; Piazza Schettini 12; meals €35; 11.40am-3.30pm & 7pm-midnight
Tue-Sun, closed Jan; FS to Pompei, Circumvesuviana to Pompei Scavi-Villa dei Misteri) With its drip-
ping chandeliers and gracious service, the President feels like a private dining room in an
Audrey Hepburn film. Conducting the charm is owner Paolo Gramaglia, whose passion
for local produce sparkles in creations like aubergine millefoglie (flaky puff pastry) with
Cetara anchovies, mozzarella filante (melted mozzarella) and grated tarallo (savoury al-
mond biscuit). Treat yourself with a degustation menu (€30 to €50).

Information

Police station ( 081 856 35 11; Piazza Porta Marina Inferiore)