Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WORTH A TRIP
PALAZZO REALE DI CASERTA
The one compelling reason to stop at the otherwise nondescript town of Caserta, 30km north of Naples, is to gasp
www.reggiadicaserta.beniculturali.it;
Viale Douhet 22; adult/reduced €12/6; palace 8.30am-7pm Wed-Mon,
park 8.30am-2hr before sunset Mon-Wed, Giardino Inglese 8.30am-3hr before sunset Mon-Wed). With film cred-
its including
Mission Impossible III
and the interior shots of Queen Amidala's royal residence in
Star Wars: Epis-
ode 1 - The Phantom Menace
and
Star Wars: Episode 2 - Attack of the Clones
, this former royal pad is one of the
greatest - and last - achievements of Italian baroque architecture.
Known to Italians as the Reggia di Caserta, the
palazzo
(mansions) began life in 1752 after King Charles VII of
Bourbon ordered a palace to rival Versailles. Neapolitan Luigi Vanvitelli was commissioned for the job and built
a palace bigger than its French rival. With its 1200 rooms, 1790 windows, 34 staircases and a 250m-long facade,
it was reputedly the largest building in 18th-century Europe.
Vanvitelli's immense staircase leads up to the royal apartments, richly decorated with tapestries, furniture, crys-
tal and art. The recently restored back rooms of the Throne Room house an extraordinary collection of historic
wooden models of the palace, along with architectural drawings and early sketches of the building by Luigi Van-
vitelli and his son, Carlo.
The apartments are also home to the Mostra Terrea Motus, an underrated collection of international modern art
commissioned after the region's devastating earthquake in 1980.
To clear your head afterwards, explore the elegant landscaped park, which stretches for some 3km to a water-
fall and fountain of Diana. Within the park is the famous Giardino Inglese (English Garden), a romantic oasis of
intricate pathways, exotic flora, pools and cascades. Bicycle hire (€4) is available on the grounds.
If you're feeling peckish, ditch the uninspiring on-site cafeteria for contemporary cafe
Martucci
( 0823 32
08 03; Via Roma 9, Caserta; pastries from €0.80, salads from €4; 5am-10.30pm), located 250m east of the
palace. The counters here heave with freshly made
panini
(sandwiches), salads, vegetable dishes, baked savour-
ies, pastries and substantial cooked-to-order meals.
Regular trains connect Naples to Caserta (€3.50, 35 to 50 minutes) from Monday to Saturday. Services are re-
duced and inconvenient on Sunday. Caserta train station is located opposite the palace grounds. If you're driving,
follow signs for the Reggia.