Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
CAMPI FLEGREI
Stretching west of Posillipo Hill to the Tyrrhenian Sea, the Campi Flegrei (Phlegraean - or 'Fiery' - Fields) is
home to some of Campania's most remarkable - and overlooked - Graeco-Roman ruins. Gateway to the area is
the port town of Pozzuoli. Established by the Greeks around 530 BC, its most famous resident is the
Anfiteatro
Flavio
( 081 526 60 07; Via Terracciano 75; admission €4, incl entry to Parco Archeologico di Baia, Museo
Archeologico dei Campi Flegrei & Scavi Archeologici di Cuma;
varies, usually every hour from 9am-1pm
Wed-Mon), Italy's third-largest ancient Roman amphitheatre.
A further 6km west, Baia was once a glamorous Roman holiday resort frequented by sun-seeking emperors.
Fragments of this opulence linger among the 1st-century ruins of the
Parco Archeologico di Baia
( 081 868
75 92; Via Sella di Baia; Sat & Sun adult/reduced €4/2, incl entry to Anfiteatro Flavio, Museo Archeologico dei
Campi Flegrei & Scavi Archeologici di Cuma, Tue-Fri free; 9am-1hr before sunset Tue-Sun; EAV BUS
to Baia or Cumana to Fusaro, then walk 900m), its mosaics, stuccoed
balneum
(bathroom) and imposing
Tempio di Mercurio once part of a sprawling palace and spa complex. While the ruins are free on weekdays,
weekend visitors need to purchase their tickets at the equally fascinating
Museo Archeologico dei Campi
Flegrei
(Archaeological Museum of the Campi Flegrei; 081 523 37 97;
ht-
tp://museoarcheologicocampiflegrei.campaniabeniculturali.it
; Via Castello 39; Sat & Sun €4, admission incl entry
to Anfiteatro Flavio, Parco Archeoligico di Baia & Scavi Archeologici di Cuma, Tue-Fri free; varies, usually
9am-2.30pm Tue-Sun, last entry 1pm; EAV BUS to Baia), a further 2km south along the coast.
Yet another 2km south, in the sleepy town of Bacoli, lurks the magical
Piscina Mirabilis
(Marvellous Pool;
333 6853278; Via Piscina Mirabilis; donation appreciated; varies; EAV BUS to Bacoli then Cu-
mana to Fusaro), the world's largest Roman cistern. You'll need to call the custodian to access the site, but it's
well worth the effort. Bathed in an eerie light and featuring 48 soaring pillars and a barrel-vaulted ceiling, the so-
called 'Marvellous Pool' is more 'subterranean cathedral' than 'giant water tank'. While entrance is free, show
your manners by offering the custodian a €2 or €3 tip.
Both the Ferrovia Cumana and the Naples metro (line 2) serve Pozzuoli, and the town is also connected to Is-
chia and Procida by frequent car and passenger ferries. To reach Baia, take the Ferrovia Cumana train to Fusaro
station, walk 150m north, turning right into Via Carlo Vanvitelli (which eventually becomes Via Bellavista). The
ruins are 750m to the east. To reach Bacoli, catch a Bacoli-bound EAV Bus from Fusaro.
Unfortunately, the Campi Flegrei's second-rate infrastructure and unreliable public transport, plus the fickle
opening times of its sites make pretrip planning a good idea. Contact the
tourist office
( 081 526 66 39;
www.infocampiflegrei.it
; Largo Matteotti 1a; 9am-3pm Mon-Fri; Pozzuoli, Cumana to Pozzuoli) in
Pozzuoli for updated information on the area's sights and opening times, or consider exploring the area with pop-
ular local tour outfit Yellow Sudmarine (
Click here
).
