Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
A Country Kitchen
It was above an open wood fire in
la cucina contadina
(the farmer's kitchen) that Tuscan
cuisine was cooked up. Its basic premise: don't waste a crumb.
During the 13th and 14th centuries, when Florence prospered and the wealthy started us-
ing silver cutlery instead of fingers, simplicity remained the hallmark of dishes served at
lavish banquets thrown by feuding families as a show of wealth. And while the Medici pas-
sion for flaunting the finer things in life during the Renaissance gave Tuscan cuisine a
fanciful kick, with spectacular sugar sculptures starring alongside spit-roasted suckling pig,
ordinary Tuscans continued to rely on the age-old
cucina povera
(poor dishes) to keep hun-
ger at bay.
Contemporary Tuscan cuisine remains faithful to these humble roots, using fresh local
produce and eschewing fussy execution.
ETIQUETTE
Bread
Is plentiful, unsalted and butter-less; don't expect a side plate (put it on the table).
Spaghetti
Twirling it around your fork as if you were born twirling is the only way - no spoons please.
Fussy kids
It is OK to ask for a plate of pasta with butter and Parmesan.
Coffee
Never order a cappuccino after 11am, and certainly not after a meal, when an espresso is the
only respectable way to end a dining experience (with, perhaps, a digestive of grappa or other fiery li-
queur).
Il conto
(the bill) Whoever invites pays.
Splitting the bill
Common enough.
Tipping
If there is no
servizio
(service charge), leave 10% to 15% tip.
Dress
Decent is best, particularly in Florence where working Florentines go home to freshen up
between
aperitivo
and dinner.
A Bloody Affair: Meat & Game
The icon of Tuscan cuisine is Florence's
bistecca alla fiorentina,
a chargrilled T-bone steak
rubbed with olive oil, seared on the chargrill, seasoned, and served
al sangue
(blue and
bloody). A born-and-bred rebel, this feisty cut of meat is weighed before it's cooked and
priced on menus by
l'etto
or 100g.
