Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
For a foray into this little-visited corner of Tuscany, head southeast (direction Firenze Sud) from
Florence
and drive alongside the Arno river through Pontassieve and over the Passo della Consuma
(SS70), a scenic mountain pass through this Tuscan section of the Apennine Mountains (follow the
signs for Consuma and Bibbiena). The road will eventually bring you to the turn-off to the
C as-
tello di Romena
, on the left-hand-side of the road. After wandering around this ruined 11th-century
castle that Dante once visited, walk or drive down the hill to the exquisite
Pieve di Romena
, a
Romanesque church with interior capitals featuring primitive carvings of human and animal figures.
To gain entry, try knocking on the door of the adjoining building. Next, follow the road signs to the
town of
Stia
. This is where the Arno meets its first tributary, the Staggia, and the town was for
many years the centre of the local wool industry. It's now home to the Lanificio di Stia, an impressive
wool museum that occupies a handsome, centuries-old mill that was the Casentino's major employer
until it closed in 2000. Near the museum's entrance is Tessilnova, a shop selling examples of the
brightly coloured and 'nubby' woollen blankets and clothing that the Casentino is famous for, as well
as other top-quality, Italian-made woollen clothing.
From Stia, it's a short drive northwest to the
Chiesa Santa Maria delle Grazie
, a gorgeous
Renaissance church - see if you can find a local who will let you inside to admire a fresco by Ghir-
landaio and two very pretty ceramic lunettes by Benedetto Buglioni. Backtracking to Stia, proceed
south through Pratovecchio and continue on to the regional centre of
Poppi
, where you can visit
the magnificent Castello dei Conti Guidi and wander the picturesque streets of the upper town before
heading to your accommodation for the night.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Poppi
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Seeming to float in the clouds above the Arno plain, Poppi Alta (the historic upper section
of the town) is crowned by the commanding presence of the Castello dei Conti Guidi. The
kiosk in the piazza outside the castle is the social hub during the summer months; at other
times locals tend to socialise in Ponte a Poppi (the lower town).
Sights
Castello dei Conti Guidi
(
www.buonconte.com
;
Piazza Repubblica 1; adult/child €6/5; 10am-6.30pm summer, to 4.30pm Thu-
Sun winter)
Castello dei Conti Guidi was built in the late 13th century by Count Simone da
Battifolle, head of the Guidi family. Inside, there's a fairy-tale courtyard, a handsome
staircase, a library full of medieval manuscripts and a chapel with frescoes by Taddeo
CASTLE
