Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
There are free tastings of local food and wine (mid-June to mid-September) in the up-
stairs
degustazion
(tasting) room at the Alberese visitor centre, conduced by the Consorzio
Naturalmente Toscana, an association of local farms. Opposite the centre are a bar-cafe
and
I Briganti al Parco
, a small and friendly
enoteca
with variable opening hours where you
can grab a sandwich,
antipasto
plate or pasta accompanied by a glass of locally produced
wine.
Parts of the regional park are farmed as they have been for centuries, mainly to graze
the famous Maremmana breed of cattle. The huge
Agienza Regionale Agricola di Alberese
(
05 6440 7180;
www.alberese.com
;
Via della Spergolaia)
farm operation produces beef, wine, olive
oil and its own organic pasta and is a regional headquarters for the Slow Food organisa-
tion. It offers a
farm experience
( 05 6440 7100; €25; 10am-1pm Thu Jul & Aug, other times by
reservation)
, including an introduction to the work of the Maremma's famed
butteri
(tradi-
tional cowboys) and tastings of farm produce. Experienced horse riders can also sign up
for work experience with a
buttero
(€50; daily from 7am to noon). The farm's
fattoria
(farmhouse; Via dell'Artigliere 4; 8.30am-12.30pm & 4.30-7.30pm Tue & Thu-Sun)
, located near
the Alberese visitor centre, sells its own products and those of other Slow
Food-accredited producers. It's a great place to stock up on supplies if you're self-cater-
ing (its Morellino di Scansano - a robust red wine - costs a mere €2 or so per litre, so
bring a couple of bottles to fill!).
The farm offers accommodation at the
Villa Fattoria Granducale
( 05 6440 7100;
www.alberese.com/fattoria-granducale
;
B&B d & tr €90-100, self-contained apt €75-125 (both 2-night
min))
, a 15th-century villa. It also rents out simple apartments in surrounding farm build-
ings; check the website for details.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Orbetello
POP 14,700
Set on a balance-beam isthmus running through a lagoon south of the Parco Regionale
della Maremma, Orbetello is a relatively laid-back seaside destination. Its modest main at-
traction is the
cathedral
(Piazza della Repubblica; 9am-noon & 3-6pm)
, which has retained its
14th-century Gothic facade despite being remodelled in the Spanish style during the 16th
century. Other reminders of the Spanish garrison that was stationed in the city for nearly
