Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 05 6596 8709; Via Cavour 32, Capoliveri; meals €45; dinner Easter-Oct)
Tucked down an al-
ley
(chiasso)
enlivened only by the odd line of washing hung out to dry, Il Chiasso has
fishy classics and and excellent wine. For a true taste of Capoliveri go for the fish soup
di
Luciano
(€25), cooked up by chef Luciano since time began and swimming with local
catch. Advance reservations recommended.
La Taverna dei Poeti
( 05 6596 8306;
www.latavernadeipoeti.com
;
Via Roma 14, Capoliveri; meals €35; dinner, closed
Wed winter)
Much-loved by locals, this traditional address sees chef Maximus cook up the
very best of Tuscan produce with a generous peppering of simplicity. The menu splits
dishes into
'mare'
(sea) and
'terre'
(literally 'earth', meaning meat), and a €50 tasting
menu pairs each of the four courses with a different wine.
TUSCAN
€€
La Botte Gaia
( 05 659 5607;
www.labottegaia.com
;
Viale Europa 5-7, Porto Azzurro; meals €35; dinner, closed
Mon winter)
Slow Food-featured and deservedly so, this is
the
revered dining address in
Porto Azzurro - lots of homemade pasta, just-caught fish and island wines.
OSTERIA
€€
Fandango
(Via Cardenti 1, Capoliveri; Tue-Sun)
Steps lead down from the panoramic terrace at the far
end of Piazza Matteotti to this
enoteca
. Sitting beneath its vine-clad pergola in the early
evening is particularly atmospheric. Cocktails, live music and
piccolo cucina
(light
snacks) add real after-dark flair.
WINE BAR
Rio dell'Elba & Rio Marina
Time and energy permitting, a final bit of gorgeous driving can be done in the northeast
corner of the island to
Rio dell'Elba
(population 1170), the heart of Elba's iron-mining op-
eration, and its coastal sibling 3.5km east,
Rio Marina
(population 2220), where the is-
land's industrial heritage comes to life in the
Museo dei Minerali e dell'Arte Mineraria
(
05
6596 2088;
www.parcominelba.it
; Via Magenta 26; adult/reduced €2.50/1.50; 9.30am-12.30pm &
3.30-6.30pm summer)
. Part of the
Parco Minerario dell'Isola d'Elba
, the museum tells the story
of Rio's open-cast iron mines from Etruscan times until 1982 when the mines closed, and
exhibits lots of sparkling chunks of golden pyrite and ink-black hematite. The museum is
also the place to bag a spot on a seasonal, kid-friendly guided tour (adult/child €12/7.50)
