Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Sleeping & Eating
To mingle with local fishermen, linger over a cappuccino or something stronger at
Da
Mario
, an institution around since 1952 opposite the fishing boats at the harbour end of the
waterfront.
Hotel Montecristo
( 05 6597 6861;
www.hotelmontecristo.it
;
Viale Nomelini; d per person €40-90; )
Low-end
rooms are a little spare; otherwise this is a pleasantly posh beachside hotel with flower-
framed balconies and a bar and pool overlooking the sea. The large sunny rooms have
Scandinavian-style light furnishings and king-size beds. There's a fitness centre, sauna
and free bicycles.
HOTEL
€€
Il Cantuccio
( 05 6597 6775;
www.ristoranteilcantuccio.eu
;
Largo Garibaldi 6; pizza €6-9, meals €25; lunch &
dinner)
Ignore the menu-touting waiters on the waterfront hoping to entice you in and head
to this backstreet trattoria instead - look for the fresh mint facade. In business since 1930,
the place is unassuming and excellent value - hence the local crowd who comes here for
Tuscan classics, homemade pasta, wood-oven fired pizza and so on.
PIZZERIA
€
Capoliveri & Porto Azzurro
From Marina di Campo it's a comparatively long drive along the south coast before
climbing up a precipitous ridgeback in the southeast pocket of the island to the hilltop vil-
lage of
Capoliveri
(population 3840). Its steep, narrow alleys and sandwiched houses are
pretty and the panorama of rooftop and sea beyond that fan out from the old stone terrace
on its central square,
Piazza Matteotti
, is lovely indeed.
Backtrack down the ridge and head east to
Porto Azzurro
(population 3530), a seaside
village overlooked by a fort (now a prison) built by Philip III of Spain in 1603. Its bijou
maze of flower-bedecked pedestrian streets is laden with restaurant and cafe terraces, and
there is a sweep of good beaches within bicycle shot. It is also a great place for easy wine
tasting.
Eating & Drinking
SEAFOOD
€€€
Il Chiasso
