Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
MARCIANA MARINA: A TRADITIONAL PASSEGGIATA
The loveliest moment of the day in laid-back Marciana Marina is late afternoon and early evening
when what feels like the entire town slowly strolls the waterfront for that all-essential, oh-so-Tuscan
passeggiata (early evening stroll).
Start on Piazza della Vittoria , at the eastern end of the seafront promenade, with its gigantic palm
tree and restaurant terraces; the hip crowd gathers for aperitivi (predinner drinks accompanied by
cocktail snacks) on the shabby-chic terrace of Enoteca Coltelli (Piazza della Vittoria 11). Around the
corner, Lasvolta (Via Cairoli 6) is much-loved for its creative granita (ices made with coffee or fresh
fruit) and gelato - red apple and cinamon, orange and black pepper, coffee and vanilla, and so on.
Walk a couple of minutes west along waterside Viale Margherita and make a quick detour a block
inland to Marciana Marina's old central square, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele . With its pretty peach-
painted church and pristine carpet of perfect cobblestones, this is easily Elba's most beautiful piazza.
Backtrack to the water and continue meandering west past stylish boutiques selling all manner of
wares - some great fashion. And, as the sun sinks, find yourself at the far end of the waterfront on
Spiaggia di Capo Nord , a handsome beach of large smooth pebbles overlooked by a 12th-century
Saracen tower.
Ristorante Capo Nord ( 05 6599 6983; meals €50; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun), an im-
possibly romantic seafood restaurant with splendid terrace on Spiaggia di Capo Nord is the perfect
place to end your passeggiata. Enjoy octopus risotto or swordfish while gazing out to sea.
Sights & Activities
Santuario della Madonna del Monte
Park at the entrance to Marciana and head out of the village on foot along Via delle Fonti
and its continuations, Via delle Coste and Via dei Monti, to this much-altered 11th-century
church. Inside is a stone upon which a divine hand is said to have painted an image of the
Virgin, believed to have miraculous powers. Outside the church a plaque commemorates
Napoleon's visits here by horseback in 1814.
It is an invigorating 40-minute uphill walk through scented parasol pine and chestnut
woods along an old mule track (lots of wild sage and thyme) and the coastal panorama
that unfolds as you get higher is remarkable. Pace yourself with the aid of 14 Stations of
the Cross and as you near the hilltop chapel (627m) play 'I Spy Corsica'. Once in situ,
drink like Napoleon did from the old stone fountain (1695) across from the church en-
trance, then continue five minutes along the footpath to ogle at Corsica.
CHAPEL
Cabinovia Monte Capanne
FUNICULAR
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